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I doubt very seriously you're putting down 235 on only 8.5 psi especially on a tsi fuel controller piggyback. Nevertheless, I've added you to the list.

Maybe some dyno sheets for proof of numbers?
I split it up into two groups. Those with dynos and those without. If anyone would like to be added to the "dyno proven" section, post up a link to your thread with your dyno. I put in your driver profile drew, but I'd like a better link with your actual dyno.
 
I doubt very seriously you're putting down 235 on only 8.5 psi especially on a tsi fuel controller piggyback. Nevertheless, I've added you to the list.


I split it up into two groups. Those with dynos and those without. If anyone would like to be added to the "dyno proven" section, post up a link to your thread with your dyno. I put in your driver profile drew, but I'd like a better link with your actual dyno.
Got a Kpro, stage 3 clutch, 2.5in exhaust, my new turbo, tial wastegate very very recently=]

was done w/ the BS of the AEM F/IC, and the crap turbo i had. Me and my buddy street tuned it for now with the help of the AEM UEGO, until my next check then its getting dyno tuned. the 235 is just a rough idea after racing ppl that have more horse then me and a heavier car and me pulling them. so idkk we'll see when its on the dyno:)

can't wait to get the crower stage3 cam/springs and retainers ect. i was reading and i guess some ppl got good gains off of it. Also i picked up a D16Y8 intake mani, and a walbro 255LP fuel pump, were just trying to get some more info on the welding of the d16 intake mani to the d17 plate, before that thing goes in.
 
Ok, that makes ALOT more sense, lol. I think it may still be a slight over estimation, but once you drop in that stage 3 cam, you can expect at least 250 whp at the same boost level. Shouldn't take but about 15 psi to hit 300.

You don't need to weld the d16 manifold on the d17 injector plate, all you have to do is take the d17 intake gasket and line it up and drill new holes so that it will mount. There isn't any welding required to make it fit.

I know this pic doesn't show it all that well but there was no modification to the injector plate, just drilled new holes to line up to the head.

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Well, i was reading all the DIY threads and whatnot, and i wanted to stay away from running new fuel lines new fuel rail, ect. so i heard the only way to do that is welding. i may be wrong, but either way the intake mani should be better for boost and about 10HP. I got a light weight underdrive pully that i need to put on, just need some tool from honda i guess... Overall i'm looking to get in the high 200's around 275hp+.
thinking about getting 3IN exhaust and a new catback muffler possible for better results.
 
I have my dyno sheets that i can post up if that puts me on the dyno proven. Ill post em up later on tonight when i get home or tomorrow morning
 
Hey guys, im sorta new to 7thgenhonda, i used to be on civicforums, and andyman referred me to here. I thought maybe u guys would be interested about knowing and thought i should be added to the completion list since I am pretty serious with the d17, and have had my fair share of experience.. it also looks like i have the second most hp proven :tup:

p.s who said you can't make 1st, 2nd spin with a d17? ^^^^^

I made 329 whp 288 tq @ 19 psi on a dynapack 4000 which reads 10-15% lower dyno proven compared to dynojets. enjoy :)

emJay (d17a2 - fully built, t3/t4) 329whp/288wtq @ 19 psi on pump, 02 1.7eL, Toronto

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61 - 80 of 126 Posts