I picked up a DC5 steering wheel for about 50 bucks, from a guy parting out his 02 Type S. The DC5 one did come with cruise control option, but of course Honda had to change the plugs around so time to cut and solder.
Please note I did already do the swap by the time im taking these pictures, this afternoon I had to re route some of the wires to keep them from making some noise.
Tools needed:
T30 Torx bit or socket
19mm socket
10mm socket
Phillips head screwdriver
Wire cutters
Solder gun/iron
Solder
Heat Shrink
Difficulty: about 3-4/10
Took me about 30 mins to do complete swap.
1. Disconnect the battery (pretty obvious)
2. Take of plastic panels on the sides of the wheel to reveal the screws.
![Image]()
This is the driver side along with the SRS connector
![Image]()
And the passenger side
3. Remove the screws with T30 trox, be careful about applying too much pressure to not try to strip them out.
4. Remove the Air bag assembly and disconnect the SRS and horn connector.
![Image]()
Horn ground connector.
![Image]()
SRS connector slide up on the upper piece, and the connector disconnects.
5. With 19mm socket break loose the nut attaching the wheel to the steering column.
![Image]()
Also mark the upright postion before hand to make sure the wheel is as straight as when you took it off.
Another hint, when pulling the wheel off, thread the nut back on a few threads to prevent knocking yourself in the face when trying to pull off the wheel.
6. After swapping wheels now comes the fun part of cutting and soldering connections. I used the old CC set up as a template since the wiring diagram is the same.
![Image]()
Here is the DC5 connector, it has a Red/Black, Orange/Black, and White/Black.
![Image]()
Compared to the ES1/EM2 connector just match up the connections.
Red/Black=Grey
Orange/Black=Blue
White/Black=Red
7. Cut wires and leave plenty extra then just solder the connections together then apply heat shrink to them and seal them all up with some electrical tape.
8. Stuff the wires back in and align the steering wheel with the line on top of the wheel.
9. Throw the nut back on and lock the steering wheel and tighten it back up.
10. Reattach the SRS connector and the horn ground.
11. Screw the torx back in and reconnect the battery.
12. Test horn and make sure SRS light hasn't tripped.
13. Take a drive and make sure the CC works, and also make sure the steering wheel is aligned correct.
Fix any issues after that.
Finished product:
![Image]()
Its a little bit smaller than the stock wheel, definitely love the leather feel and feels like it handle a lot better than stock.
Thanks for looking, overall very easy project, just doing it in the heat isn't fun. If you have any questions or want me to fix something just let me know.
Thanks
Please note I did already do the swap by the time im taking these pictures, this afternoon I had to re route some of the wires to keep them from making some noise.
Tools needed:
T30 Torx bit or socket
19mm socket
10mm socket
Phillips head screwdriver
Wire cutters
Solder gun/iron
Solder
Heat Shrink
Difficulty: about 3-4/10
Took me about 30 mins to do complete swap.
1. Disconnect the battery (pretty obvious)
2. Take of plastic panels on the sides of the wheel to reveal the screws.
This is the driver side along with the SRS connector
And the passenger side
3. Remove the screws with T30 trox, be careful about applying too much pressure to not try to strip them out.
4. Remove the Air bag assembly and disconnect the SRS and horn connector.
Horn ground connector.
SRS connector slide up on the upper piece, and the connector disconnects.
5. With 19mm socket break loose the nut attaching the wheel to the steering column.
Also mark the upright postion before hand to make sure the wheel is as straight as when you took it off.
Another hint, when pulling the wheel off, thread the nut back on a few threads to prevent knocking yourself in the face when trying to pull off the wheel.
6. After swapping wheels now comes the fun part of cutting and soldering connections. I used the old CC set up as a template since the wiring diagram is the same.
Here is the DC5 connector, it has a Red/Black, Orange/Black, and White/Black.
Compared to the ES1/EM2 connector just match up the connections.
Red/Black=Grey
Orange/Black=Blue
White/Black=Red
7. Cut wires and leave plenty extra then just solder the connections together then apply heat shrink to them and seal them all up with some electrical tape.
8. Stuff the wires back in and align the steering wheel with the line on top of the wheel.
9. Throw the nut back on and lock the steering wheel and tighten it back up.
10. Reattach the SRS connector and the horn ground.
11. Screw the torx back in and reconnect the battery.
12. Test horn and make sure SRS light hasn't tripped.
13. Take a drive and make sure the CC works, and also make sure the steering wheel is aligned correct.
Fix any issues after that.
Finished product:
Its a little bit smaller than the stock wheel, definitely love the leather feel and feels like it handle a lot better than stock.
Thanks for looking, overall very easy project, just doing it in the heat isn't fun. If you have any questions or want me to fix something just let me know.
Thanks
