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Honda civic LX manual

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47 views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  drewr1122  
#1 ·
I did a head gasket job on my civic after the notorious d17 head gasket gave out. After putting everything back together and some minor troubleshooting for random codes and rough starting and running. it now starts without as much hesitation but still runs very loud

I’m having an issue right now with the idle and the actual running of the engine it seems like the engine is having a really hard time driving on its own without assistance from the IACV. I’m going to post a long notepad on the step by step diagnostic and fixes on here to see what you guys think because I’m very lost on this. My local Honda service wasn’t able to figure out the issue and they said my car is running normally. Obviously it’s not.

~Car runs fine with no issues other than overheating during idle [sounds like a normal running engine with quiet injector noise]
Blew head gasket

Replaced head gasket and idles loudly and weird Codes: P0340, P0122, P1324, P0113, cyl 3 misfire [Sounds like the wheel of fortune]

Valve adjustment fixed misfire on 3 TP Sensor was left unplugged IAT Sensor was left unplugged Knock sensor code disappeared CMP Sensor code no change 2nd valve adjustment fixed CMP Sensor code
[Sounds like a really loud sewing machine]

No codes Idles at 900 before driving Tapping the gas rpm rises to 2000-3000 and falls back down to 1100 hesitantly after a few seconds, car dies when starter fluid is sprayed near injector 1 Replaced Fuel injectors, orings, and IACV Bucks violently while in any gear after letting off the throttle, when reapplying throttle the car violently accelerates engine speed to 2000rpm
(no gap of rpm between idle and 2000rpm without load)
[No change in sound]

New Codes: P0507, P2279 Sprayed TB cleaner at the brake booster and its hose; no change Sprayed TB cleaner near injectors; injectors 1 2 and 3 cause a drop in rpm. Pulled fuel rail and injectors 1 2 and 3 never set the plastic stops and orings into their bores; manually set the plastic stoppers and orange orings into the bores and set injectors Sprayed TB cleaner at injectors Directly; no change to rpm Sprayed TB cleaner “Near” the 1st injector; slight rpm drop
[no change in sound]

Cleared codes: P0507, P2279

Idle sensors:
Engine Speed> 934 RPM
Vehicle Speed> 0 MPH
ECT Sensor 1> 181.8
F IAT Sensor (1)> 116.6 F
MAP Sensor> 5.07632 psi
CLV> 38%
Baro Sensor> 14.2137 psi
TP Sensor> 0°
AF Sensor> 0.1 mA
AF Lambda> 1
Air Fuel Ratio> 14.3
AF FB (ST Fuel Trim)> 0.92
AF FB AVE (LT Fuel Trim)> 0.93
AF FB CMD> 14.67
A/FFSS> CLOSED
HO2S S2> 0.76 v
HO2S S2 Heater> ON
Battery> 14.1 v
ELD Sensor Output Voltage> 8.48 v
Alternator> 37%
PSP Switch> ON
EGR L Command> O in.
EGR LIFT> 0.00197 in.
EGR Valve Position Sensor (EGR Vls)> 1.22 v
IAC Command> 4%
F Injector> 3.34 ms
Spark Advance> -7.5 •
Knock Retard> 0 •
EVAP PC Duty> 61%
FTP Sensor> 0.29008 psi
EVAP BYPASS SOL> OFF
Misfire> 0
Misfired Cylinder> 0
CMP B No Pulse> 50
CKP No Pulse> 63
CMP B Noise> 30
CKP noise> 30

Idles at 900 before driving Tapping the gas rpm rises to 2000-3000 and falls back down to 1100 hesitantly after a few seconds then after a few more seconds rpm drops to 900 again oscillating throttle from 2100 to 1100 while clutch is in or in N sometimes rpm 1500-1600 While idling at 900 if I push in the brake the idle increases by about 100rpm When cooling fans turn on idle increases by a additional 100rpm if the ac is on the idle increases a additional 150rpm
[no change in sound]

Drove 17 miles
2100RPM 52 mph in 4th gear
IAC COMMAND> 40%
F INJECTOR> 7.12 ms
Spark Advance> 31.5 •
EVAP PC Duty> 100%

New Idle rpm is 1500 Oscillates from 1500-2500 at stoplights While brake is pushed in while cooling fans are running, idle oscillates from 1700-3100 [ticking is ever so slightly louder]
 
#3 · (Edited)
car dies when starter fluid is sprayed near injector 1
There's 35psi on the fuel system so this wouldn't change anything there [Edit: I thought about this during my hike today and decided I was wrong about that because they are not direct injection and are under intake vacuum so those lower injector seals could also let in air]. You might still want to do that test again with the intake manifold in mind as idle issues and noise could be an intake leak there as well.

The continued tapping could also be a mistake when adjusting the valve lash(btdt). I also like the idea of rechecking the timing belt position mentioned above.
 
#4 ·
Idles at 900 before driving Tapping the gas rpm rises to 2000-3000 and falls back down to 1100 hesitantly after a few seconds then after a few more seconds rpm drops to 900 again oscillating throttle from 2100 to 1100 while clutch is in or in N sometimes rpm 1500-1600 While idling at 900 if I push in the brake the idle increases by about 100rpm When cooling fans turn on idle increases by a additional 100rpm if the ac is on the idle increases a additional 150rpm
[no change in sound]
This is normal. Do an idle relearn procedure - there are a number of yt videos on how to do it. If it still persists, try cleaning your idle air control valve, but it's usually just a matter of the computer "forgetting" how to idle properly after a long time without the battery connected. Check your grounds as well, the knock sensor code is usually a telltale sign that the power isn't grounding well.