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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Need some information regarding my setup here.

I'm running a 600W class D amp powering 2x 12" subs
and another 400W Fosgate 4-ch amp to power my components.

A few nights ago i was at a parking lot waiting for someone, so I had my sound system on. I let it run for about 30 minutes. When I went to start the car, it wouldn't start.

All I heard was a clicking noise when I went to crank.

So I waited another 20-30 mins with the car completely off and was able to start the car again. (there was a bit of a struggle, but it started)

Since than I've had no issues starting the car.

Is my problem the battery getting drained? or is it a problem with my starter?

If my system is draining the battery, how would i prevent this? My concern is the odd times I would like to go to a Drive in Theatre, I will be sitting there for 1h30 to 2 hours. If I'm having problem with 30 mins, I won't be able to go to drive in for sure.
 

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try not to kill your battery, i've done that exact thing to my car, always caused by not running the car to recharge the battery. idling won't charge it either, you need to rev it a bit for awhile so the alternater can do its job
 

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what battery are you using ray? is it matched cold cranking amps for you k20 motor? is the battery located in the trunk?
 

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I've done that too. The battery is just being drained. It's like leaving your lights on overnight.
Maybe you could get an additional battery just for your system, but I don't know if you would have to upgrade the alternator
 

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check if the ground is touching your positive wire, mine has done it before it clicks when i start it up
 

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if your using a class D mono amp i advise you getting a another battery just for your system because it's shoots a 600w every second just to power the amp
 

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Drawing power for 2 amps is enough to kill your battery enough for the car not to start with in 30 minutes. Starting your car is what pretty much uses all of the battery and than the alternator recharges it. I would also recomend getting a capacitor to help prolong your batterys life.
 

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capacitors are junk, don't start with them, the red top should be just fine.
When your car is off take a voltage meter and check how much it gives.

Also what you could do is built in an undervoltage protection,
there are "kits" made especially for cars and such.

Second option is getting a second battery ;) and switch them in parallel connection
 

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red top is not designed for car audio, and it sounds to me like it is just the battery draining, i have a 1200w hifonics with 2 12s and another 600w for my speakers, i got the yellow top and did the big 3 wireing for the motor, but i still get flickers on my lights when im driving, i would suggest to do the big 3 and if that dosnt help, then get a secondary battery
 

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red top is not designed for car audio, and it sounds to me like it is just the battery draining, i have a 1200w hifonics with 2 12s and another 600w for my speakers, i got the yellow top and did the big 3 wireing for the motor, but i still get flickers on my lights when im driving, i would suggest to do the big 3 and if that dosnt help, then get a secondary battery
yes, the red tops aren't meant for car audio, but for starting heavy vehicles, boats,
yellow top like your's is for car audio.

I would advise anyone who wants some decent battery to get a Northstar,
these aren't gel or lead batteries. But much better,
i had 2 of these babies for Db drag when using a Digital Design amp giving +4000 w RMS, they did just fine!
 

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yeah there are many manufactures of dry cell batterys out there but optima is probably one of the best known and most easily attainable
 

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most likely your battery. the clicking noise is a symptom of a dead battery. you can take your battery out and get it tested for free at autozone. they test starters for free too, but it has to be off the car. if the car sits for a few days, does it start right up, or does it turn over a little more slowly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i had capacitor before and it didn't help, i still had battery issues with it.

I don't know how feasible it would be to run a second battery, but i guess in the future i'll grab a yellow top instead.

In the meantime I'll just make sure I don't listen to the audio system when the car is off.
 

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dont even worry about a capacitor, they are a waste of money and usually only make your alternator work harder, since they drain the battery continuously to keep charged. big 3 does a way better job than a cap cause it just makes it flow better like a h/i/e for your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
so it looks like the issue might have been resolved. The ground terminal from the Alternator was corroded. providing a weak source of contact.

That was the reason i was having trouble starting the car and having trouble recharging the battery when the car was on.

Car sounds like a champ when I crank it now, so I should be okay, but I will still avoid using the sound system when the car is off
 

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soooooo, you ran your system for 30 minutes with the car turned off? is that correct?

Any system will drain your battery if played while the car is off. 30 minutes sounds about right for the set up you are running.

and no, that system would not drain 600w/sec. Current is not measured in watts, but in amperes. A system like that would draw approximately 40A.
 
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