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Yes the RSX type S brake booster and cylinder is a very small up grade. I am not sure if you will notice it. Its not that big of an up grade. RSX type S brake are bigger than ours which needs more pressure to power them. Also you make want to consider changing your brake lines out to braided lines that is where you are loosing most of your brake pressure. On non braided lines your line expands which causes your brake pressure to go down. Braided lines do not expand under pressure.

If you do this swap make sure you get the RSX Type S booster and cylinder.

The base RSX booster and cylinder is very similar to the civic.
 

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Hi I'm _Daniel_
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It depends. Can you still lock up your tires or engage ABS?? If you can then theres no point in upgrading the master cylinder/booster. As for the rear disc brakes, that would be more effected by the ppv. & "upgrading" that depends on the pressure ratio of the stock ppv & the optimal clamping force of the calipers. But ive never heard of anyone measuring either of those
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It depends. Can you still lock up your tires or engage ABS?? If you can then theres no point in upgrading the master cylinder/booster. As for the rear disc brakes, that would be more effected by the ppv. & "upgrading" that depends on the pressure ratio of the stock ppv & the optimal clamping force of the calipers. But ive never heard of anyone measuring either of those
I haven't engaged my ABS in a long while. It used to be pretty easy to engage ABS in the snow, but this past winter, I haven;t noticed it at all.
I did the K-swap last summer.
How fast do i have to drive and how hard do i have to brake for ABS to engage normally on dry road conditions?
 

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Hi I'm _Daniel_
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I doubt theres a minimum speed it engages on but I cant say for sure. Ive never engaged ABS on these cars.
30-40mph in a straight line is probably a fine testing spot of course not where someone can rear end you. You just basically jump on the brake & either you will feel/hear ABS come in or not.
Not engaging ABS doesnt mean you aren't braking hard enough. In fact the sweet spot in performance driving in a car that has ABS, is to brake with as much force that will NOT engage ABS. Who knows maybe you are just being a smoother driver
 

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the brake booster won't actaully help you at all it sounds kind of stupid but the brake booster that is made for the cars with rear drums puts out more pressure that all the rest cause the cylinders in the drums actually require more pressure plus it is fighting a return spring.

and the proportioning valves are all the same for the hondas its a 70/30 split the only difference is between the abs version and non-abs version which is the number of valve holes due to the extra lines needed for the ABS
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I doubt theres a minimum speed it engages on but I cant say for sure. Ive never engaged ABS on these cars.
30-40mph in a straight line is probably a fine testing spot of course not where someone can rear end you. You just basically jump on the brake & either you will feel/hear ABS come in or not.
Not engaging ABS doesnt mean you aren't braking hard enough. In fact the sweet spot in performance driving in a car that has ABS, is to brake with as much force that will NOT engage ABS. Who knows maybe you are just being a smoother driver
Alright, I won't be too concerned about engaging the ABS than, I'm always making sure I have enough space between me and the car in the front anyway to prevent the need to hard brake.

the brake booster won't actaully help you at all it sounds kind of stupid but the brake booster that is made for the cars with rear drums puts out more pressure that all the rest cause the cylinders in the drums actually require more pressure plus it is fighting a return spring.

and the proportioning valves are all the same for the hondas its a 70/30 split the only difference is between the abs version and non-abs version which is the number of valve holes due to the extra lines needed for the ABS
So Paul, I don't need brake booster or master cylinder? I'm under the assumption they are two separate things. Correct me if Im wrong
 

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no you don't and you are correct they are two different things but since they are bolted together they are sometimes referred as one unit. the brake booster is literally just a large diaphragm that uses the vacuum of the engine to help assist you with the braking and they are all about the same the one setup for rear drums creates a little more force it is so minuscule you will not feel any difference at all.

and the master cylinder well honda uses the same one for all there cars supposedly the s2000 is a little different (don't quote me on that) but the rsx and ep3 is the same.

the only way you are going to get more force out of your brakes is by making the pedal ratio longer or changing the bore size of the master cylinder and to do both properly it is more costly than it is worth


you want it to brake better get rear discs maybe braided lines and if you still want more bump up to a more aggressive pad cause the ones I included are only oem
 

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S2000 brake booster and cylinder is the best one. It produces almost twice the pressure than our stock ones.

Problem is you need to make heavy modifications to fit the s2000 booster and cylinder in.

mr_fobster has S2000 booster and cylinder in his car.

You need custom lines and need to cut the plastic on the bezel to fit the s2000 cylinder in.

I am doing this swap later on. I just haven't had the time. I have all the parts just need time.
 
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