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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All

I have gone through these forums and other online resources without much luck and figured I should just try a post of my own and see how things turn out.

After reading way too many vague and simplistic posts ("My Honda doesn't work...") I will try and be a specific and descriptive as possible.

I have a 2005 Honda Civic DX /w a manual transmission that over the past month has started to show a slight and now more pronounced clicking noise.

1. The noise itself is best described as a slight ticking sound, kinda of like when we used to put hockey cards (here in Canada) in the spokes of our bicycle wheels. The ticking speeds up and slows with the speed of the car.

2. This noise is coming from the center of the engine bay (not either side) and I have checked the boots on the CV joints, so I am going to rule that out.

3. The noise only appears when I am accelerating, and is especially noticeable in 1st gear at slow speeds and accelerating out of a stop. I suspect the noise is still there at higher speeds, but is drowned out by engine and road noise.

4. The noise does NOT appear when simply revving the engine RPM's with the clutch in.

5. As I think this may be a transmission issue a possible associated issue is that when the car is cold, we sometimes have the clutch skip when starting out in first gear, creating a "herky-jerky" start from 1st gear (1st gear only). Kinda like when we where all first learning how to use a manual tranny.

Sorry I don't mean to muddy the waters with that last bit of info, so please ignore if you feel it is not pertinent.

Anyways...Just looking for something to go to a mechanic with and be able to provide some knowledgeable answers to their questions and call them on any BS.

Cheers
 

· I should stop posting
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Any number of bearings...

Clutch in = Pilot Bearing
Clutch out = Possibly throwout bearing or a transmission bearing, if it sounds like it's coming from the bell housing it is the very common Input shaft bearing.

The good news is you can keep driving it and it will just get louder and eventually wreck the main shaft bearing from what I've been told, at which point you can continue to keep driving on it until you can no longer shift... :dance:

Long story short, don't put too much thought into it, best bet is to pick up a spare tranny and drive on the current one until it quits.

Unless you know how to pry open the manual trans and repair it like bomberman... I think the ISB for our car is like $20... LOL, but it's a lot of work to get at...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey All

Just as a followup to this thread and for some feedback, the mechanic has confirmed what admobandy suggested which is the Input Shaft Bearing is done. They will need to take out the tranny and rebuilt it, replace some seals and at the same time they want to redo the clutch for around $2200, all together.

This is a 2005 Civc DX manual. Seem reasonable? Any suggestions for other courses of action? Sell it privately, try to trade it in? Drive it till it drops the tranny out the backend?

Ugh.
 

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you can find a lower mileage tranny from a junkyard anywhere between 300 and 700 usually...

I have this problem right now too so I have been searching as well :D

IMHO it's not worth fixing... As for them doing the clutch at the same time that is certainly and ideal time to replace your clutch when the trans is off already, but if you don't need a new one I wouldn't add the expense, unless you're just replacing with OEM pressure plate and friction plate which aren't all that expensive at all.

Tranmission though is a terrible amount of labor, I would certainly just drive it until it quits and replace with a different one when that time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey All

Just as a followup to this thread and for some feedback, the mechanic has confirmed what admobandy suggested which is the Input Shaft Bearing is done. They will need to take out the tranny and rebuilt it, replace some seals and at the same time they want to redo the clutch for around $2200, all together.

This is a 2005 Civc DX manual. Seem reasonable? Any suggestions for other courses of action? Sell it privately, try to trade it in? Drive it till it drops the tranny out the backend?

Ugh.
Final quote is in. $2300. Replaces input shaft bearing, replace clutch disk, machines fly wheel, replaces rear main seal. Reasonable?

If I am already doing this, is there any suggested after market upgrades for the tranny or clutch I could do at the same time. Nothing to crazy, just suggestions for resale value or longevity?

Cheers
Cheers
 

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My car did this as well it is a very common problem on honda transmissions. It is the main bearing on the input shaft that goes out cause it is mostly plastic. I did it all myself but I do this for a living. The price you were quoted seems to be right. The only hard part about doing this job is that you have to drop the subframe to get it out. Other then that its just bolts that hold the transmission together and sealant so it doesn't leak.
 

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Try and look for a trans in a nearby junkyard...i replaced mine a year ago.. I was able to get a low mileage engine nd tranny for $250. Labor was $400 clutch $200 Rear main seal, axle seals, grease, MTF like $150 more less..
 

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Any number of bearings...

Long story short, don't put too much thought into it, best bet is to pick up a spare tranny and drive on the current one until it quits.

Unless you know how to pry open the manual trans and repair it like bomberman... I think the ISB for our car is like $20... LOL, but it's a lot of work to get at...
Totally agree with the back up tranny plan.

However, do not be intimidated by a transmission. I have had mine out and apart planty. Just download the Honda FSM (Factory Service Manual) and go to town.

The only specialty tools you really need are a slide hammer puller which u can rent for free from Part Source and a torque wrench for re assembly.

Just pick up the bearings (do both input shaft and both counter shaft bearings) , seals and some Permatex grey sealant andgo to town. You shouldnt need to touch the diff bearings.

When u drop the subframe, Just drop the whole thing, sway bar and LCA's all as one, then take your drive shafts out. Will make your life easier.

Sockets needed: 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 27(back up switch) and 32mm(for axle nuts)
Toos needed:
-Pry bar
-Large Flat head (for snap ring on top of tranny), or long nose snap ring pliers
-3/8 Ratchet (for drain plug)
-1/2 Ratchet (for plug over snap ring)
-Jack
-Jack stands

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey All

Thanks to all for input on a decision as well as the info on a DIY solution.

I am still shopping for quotes as I am in no rush as I can "ride this issues out" for awhile.

I will look into updating the flywheel to a light weight solution.

These forums have been excellent!!

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So, just a quick update on this situation with Honda and this specific issue with the transmission.

My wife has decided (her car) to take Honda to task on the fact that the transmission is toast after 120+K km of use.

They will be doing an assessment of their own that will cost us around $200 to confirm the issue and then we will go from there.

As this is all out of warranty we are really at the mercy of Honda. Hopefully we can work something out.

What is becoming obvious to me is that the level of service, responsiveness and general care that any car owner experiences is a much more direct function of the dealership itself and not so much of the manufacture themselves. Find a good dealership and the experiences seems to be VERY different from someone else with a different dealership under the same manufacturer.

It will be interesting to see how this turns out.

Will update...
 

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Totally agree with the back up tranny plan. However, do not be intimidated by a transmission. I have had mine out and apart planty. Just download the Honda FSM (Factory Service Manual) and go to town. The only specialty tools you really need are a slide hammer puller which u can rent for free from Part Source and a torque wrench for re assembly. Just pick up the bearings (do both input shaft and both counter shaft bearings) , seals and some Permatex grey sealant andgo to town. You shouldnt need to touch the diff bearings. When u drop the subframe, Just drop the whole thing, sway bar and LCA's all as one, then take your drive shafts out. Will make your life easier. Sockets needed: 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 27(back up switch) and 32mm(for axle nuts) Toos needed: -Pry bar -Large Flat head (for snap ring on top of tranny), or long nose snap ring pliers -3/8 Ratchet (for drain plug) -1/2 Ratchet (for plug over snap ring) -Jack -Jack stands Hope this helps
Hey, There. You seem to know what you're doing, so I have a question. My 1996 Honda Civic started making a noise under the hood. Sounds like a loud flutter. The noise disappears when I push the clutch pedal down. As I ease my foot off the clutch pedal, the noise returns. The mechanic told me I needed a new clutch. I had it replaced along with slave cylinder and flywheel. The noise remains and it is the same scenario. Went to another mechanic who told me I need a new transmission. I had the transmission flushed 9000 miles ago, so I'm assuming it doesn't need transmission fluid. The water pump was replaced at that time. Do you have a guess as to what the problem is? Thank you.
 

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2004 Civic EX (es2)
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This is a very old thread, also that's a 6th gen. You might get more response it you start a new one instead but I may be able to help anyway. :)
If the noise stops or changes when you even gently place your foot on the pedal it's likely a worn throwout bearing - the thing that lets the fixed lever press on the spinning clutch pressure plate. Your mechanic is still correct though. Since you have to pull the engine for this it's a good idea to replace all the clutch bits at once(and rear main seal) so you don't have to keep pulling it back apart. While it's out and easy to work on, you might also consider timing belt, water pump, VC and pan gaskets, adjust the valve lash, new plugs and wires etc. If it's got a zillion miles on it you might want to look into a rebuilt esp. if it's smoking at all(rings).
 

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This is a very old thread, also that's a 6th gen. You might get more response it you start a new one instead but I may be able to help anyway. :) If the noise stops or changes when you even gently place your foot on the pedal it's likely a worn throwout bearing - the thing that lets the fixed lever press on the spinning clutch pressure plate. Your mechanic is still correct though. Since you have to pull the engine for this it's a good idea to replace all the clutch bits at once(and rear main seal) so you don't have to keep pulling it back apart. While it's out and easy to work on, you might also consider timing belt, water pump, VC and pan gaskets, adjust the valve lash, new plugs and wires etc. If it's got a zillion miles on it you might want to look into a rebuilt esp. if it's smoking at all(rings).
Thank you for your reply. I had the things done that you mention 9,000 miles ago. I’ve taken it around and they agree with you—the culprit is the throwout bearing not the transmission. Thanks again. I had a feeling you’d know.
 
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