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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i am debating switching my set up. I have been doing research here and there and trying to figure out what i want. Koni/GC is an option, but i was also looking into some full coilover systems. I don't mean to sound repetitive asking for coilover thoughts and reviews so ill try to keep questions to this thread. As far as full coils go, i have been looking at B&G S3s and the Progress Competition. If you have any other suggestions, by all means feel free. I am trying to stay away from the whole K-Sport, Megan, D2, BC, and ect. Not that these are horrible systems, i just know i could find something a bit better for harder street driving applications.

What i want you ask? A (preferably) full coilover set up. Monotube design (if you think this is no big deal, give me your .02. From what i have read Mono tube seems more efficient), a set up (not including damper or camber adjusting) that will not exceed $1100, and a set up that will allow atleast a 2.5" or more.

So suggest and comment away regarding this. I would most likely be daily driving with a 1 finger gap, raise it a tad for spirited driving and possibly AutoX, then bring it down to around a 0 finger gap for events.

Some questions i have are...

Camber plates? What is the real benefit to these. I have heard some say these are the "right" way to do it. I have also heard these are not applicable on the B&Gs. Anyone know if this is true?

Pillow ball mounts? Would you recommend these over camber arms/bolts? I could only assume they are better with most reducing flex and being easier to dial in. But how does it work? Do your regular rear arms on the car become worthless?
 

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Hi I'm _Daniel_
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well if you want to talk performance you cant use terms like 1 finger gap. A monotube damper is not always superior to twin tube. the design has its advantages, yes but i dont think your would be able tell a difference since youre not really doing any performance driving.
camber plates usually provide easier adjustment of camber. the issue with adjusting camber in the negative direction, is you will increase your king pin inclination angle. the larger this angle is, the less effective camber you obtain during cornering. most camber plates are equipped with pillow ball mounts. it just allows less flex and more driver feedback. as for the rear i dont understand your question. the only spherical mounts for the rear uca are just pressed in to an existing arm. i doubt you could notice a difference there either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well if you want to talk performance you cant use terms like 1 finger gap. A monotube damper is not always superior to twin tube. the design has its advantages, yes but i dont think your would be able tell a difference since youre not really doing any performance driving.
camber plates usually provide easier adjustment of camber. the issue with adjusting camber in the negative direction, is you will increase your king pin inclination angle. the larger this angle is, the less effective camber you obtain during cornering. most camber plates are equipped with pillow ball mounts. it just allows less flex and more driver feedback. as for the rear i dont understand your question. the only spherical mounts for the rear uca are just pressed in to an existing arm. i doubt you could notice a difference there either.
Thanks for the info Metal. As i said if i did any heavy driving it would most certainly be no shorter than a 1 finger gap. For autoX i would raise it a substansial amount.

Also which question or statement are you referring to concerning spherical mounts? Is it this one, "Do your regular rear arms on the car become worthless?" Regardless, my main question i have for the rear part is this. From the factory you have the "arms" for camber adjustment. I am only assuming camber plates can be used in the rear? That is where i might be getting confused, and furthermore confusing yourself. My mentality is you can use camber plates in the rear. In that case, being able to dial it in from the top of the strut. So what happens to the "arm" then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Might want to look into KW's ive heard good things about them. Only thing is idk if you can find them for less than $1100.

Ive been on Progress for about year and half and ive been happy with them.
Yea, i know KW makes an excellent system but they are a bit pricey. I have seen them cheap though. I think someone on here a while back actually sold a set for around $600 or something. That seemed like a steal.

On the topic of Progress... you like them? I know they are a good company but i have seen more bad reviews than B&G. Most of them seem to be dealing with the top hats and having bearing issues. I haven't been able to figure out what bearing they are referring to though. There is a clash between plastic and metal ones. Are they talking about all the little ball bearing that are inside the top hat?

At this point though i am considering Progress over B&G just because for one:The S3s just wont allow me to control my set up how i would like to. two: They discontinued that system, so if something went wrong or anything replacement or fixing would be limited.
 

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Thanks for the info Metal. As i said if i did any heavy driving it would most certainly be no shorter than a 1 finger gap. For autoX i would raise it a substansial amount.

Also which question or statement are you referring to concerning spherical mounts? Is it this one, "Do your regular rear arms on the car become worthless?" Regardless, my main question i have for the rear part is this. From the factory you have the "arms" for camber adjustment. I am only assuming camber plates can be used in the rear? That is where i might be getting confused, and furthermore confusing yourself. My mentality is you can use camber plates in the rear. In that case, being able to dial it in from the top of the strut. So what happens to the "arm" then?
You can't just change the height around when you feel like it. It changes all your wheel angles and then you will have to get an alignment. So driving around at a certain height, then changing it for autox is just silly unless you are really skilled at DIY alignments.

Spherical mounts = pillowball. There is no camber plate for the rear, it is just the piston connected to a pillowball which is connected to the upper mount. But only certain applications come with rear pillowballs.

You do not have adjustable rear camber arms. OEM is unadjustable. So you need an adjustable camber arm for the rear. Camber plates are only on the front for our car.
 

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Yea, i know KW makes an excellent system but they are a bit pricey. I have seen them cheap though. I think someone on here a while back actually sold a set for around $600 or something. That seemed like a steal.

On the topic of Progress... you like them? I know they are a good company but i have seen more bad reviews than B&G. Most of them seem to be dealing with the top hats and having bearing issues. I haven't been able to figure out what bearing they are referring to though. There is a clash between plastic and metal ones. Are they talking about all the little ball bearing that are inside the top hat?

At this point though i am considering Progress over B&G just because for one:The S3s just wont allow me to control my set up how i would like to. two: They discontinued that system, so if something went wrong or anything replacement or fixing would be limited.
In terms of who makes good shocks, Progress, KW, or Koni. These brands have awesome shocks. These brands also do not come with camber plates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well obviously you can't just raise it up and down as you wish without affecting camber angles. And yes i know OEM arms are not adjustable.

Thanks for the info. on spherical mounts and the camber plates though :tup:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ah, yep. That is what i was talking about. My question was more or less why that is though. I found a link on honda-tech with part numbers, and people saying you need them. I haven't been able to find info. for WHY though.
 
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