[Tracecross30]

Hey guys, I have my 7th gen civic, 1.7Lt vtec, is burning too much gas than normal. When I just got this car in 2019 , when I full up at the pump for example on a Saturday, I would drive the whole week back and forth to work which is about 2miles round trip and the needle wouldn’t move from the full mark until the next Friday or Saturday. Now I would drive the same distance sometimes 3 miles and now the needle would be just little above half a tank. I use fuel cleaner tat times, I clean the injectors manually, not that I’m a pro but, i watch video and see how they do it. My air filter is clean, I changed oil regularly,I adjust the valve many times, intake from 0.700-0.900. Exhaust 0.900-0.1100 something like that so I used 7 for intake and 9 for the exhaust, just light drag when I adjusted them, not sure if I have the right amount of drag. But I’m not burning gas the way it should. I notice the gas gauge needle bounced at times. Sometimes it would should half a tank but when I drive hard in 2nd gear it move up from half. I have a new fuel pump assembly in it that I got autozone but it still doesn’t make a difference. Any help to this problem would help a lot.

 

[bLues_hawk]

2 miles wow! You really should walk to work.

Those aftermarket replacement fuel pump assemblies are very often not calibrated properly. You should use the in dash trip meter to check your mileage. Just reset it each time you top off the tank and note how much gas you put in each time, then it's easy to figure out how just much you've used.

Be careful with valve adjustments as it could lead to leaking and or burning a valve when the engine is warm, best to err a little the loose side as they tend to tighten as the engine eats up due to metal expansion. I was taught (eons ago) to use the feeler gauges of the next higher and lower amounts as a "go/no go" to check valve lash settings during adjustments and make sure the lock nut is tight before checking. You should not have much drag at all if it's done properly.

An OBD2 reader might help find answers ...or at least more questions. I have a cheap little bluetooth one I got from amazon that works. A web search for any errors you find usually comes up with some more things to check out.

And stop feeding it miracle fluids! All those hings do is take your money and some of them will cost you much more.
Welcome! and good luck with it.

 

[Tracecross30]

2 miles wow! You really should walk to work.

Those aftermarket replacement fuel pump assemblies are very often not calibrated properly. You should use the in dash trip meter to check your mileage. Just reset it each time you top off the tank and note how much gas you put in each time, then it's easy to figure out how just much you've used.

Be careful with valve adjustments as it could lead to leaking and or burning a valve when the engine is warm, best to err a little the loose side as they tend to tighten as the engine eats up due to metal expansion. I was taught (eons ago) to use the feeler gauges of the next higher and lower amounts as a "go/no go" to check valve lash settings during adjustments and make sure the lock nut is tight before checking. You should not have much drag at all if it's done properly.

An OBD2 reader might help find answers ...or at least more questions. I have a cheap little bluetooth one I got from amazon that works. A web search for any errors you find usually comes up with some more things to check out.

And stop feeding it miracle fluids! All those hings do is take your money and some of them will cost you much more.
Welcome! and good luck with it.

Ok, thanks for the info. so how will I use the OBD2 scanner to check if it’s burning fuel efficiently? And I just have slight drog. I might recheck them to see how tight they are now. Why when I do valve lash and drive for a few weeks and recheck them a few of them would get tighter than some?

I have two other issues. About 3 months now I noticed that my front right wheel is pushed towards the front than the wheel on the left side.

the rear left side of the car over the wheel is sitting lower than the rear right side. I noticed all these when I’m detailing my car and realized that my hand having trouble to go underneath the wheel well to clean it. I would have fight my hand to go underneath those two wheels only.
what could causing all these problems.? I really like this car and put lots of money into it so I’m not intended to sell it because I won’t get back what spend on it.

 

[bLues_hawk]

Ok, thanks for the info. so how will I use the OBD2 scanner to check if it’s burning fuel efficiently? And I just have slight drog. I might recheck them to see how tight they are now. Why when I do valve lash and drive for a few weeks and recheck them a few of them would get tighter than some?

The obd2 scanner may give you trouble codes you can look up. you can also use it to check calculated mix and the app I use "Piston" also shows calculated mileage.
You should also try the odometer trick to check your mileage by resetting the trip meter each time you top it up, and note how much gas it took to fill vs. the miles you went. Also, lock your car at night to curtail gas thieves. --this happened to me despite living in the country.
More tips on the valve lash adjustment:
td:dr --change the tappets
The valve tappets(the little screw and nut) are hardened originally but if they go a long time without adjusting(previous owner in my case) they can get worn down such that when you do turn them the metal wears faster and at different rates. Since you are checking them a lot, you might try replacing them next time and see if that stops the wandering gaps. Make sure the engine is very cold when you do them as heating and cooling at different rates can also cause gap variances. The computer can make up for small differences in compression/combustion so it's more important that they don't get too tight.

I have two other issues. About 3 months now I noticed that my front right wheel is pushed towards the front than the wheel on the left side. the rear left side of the car over the wheel is sitting lower than the rear right side. I noticed all these when I’m detailing my car and realized that my hand having trouble to go underneath the wheel well to clean it. I would have fight my hand to go underneath those two wheels only.

This is a bigger issue than the valves. Make sure it's on flat level ground when you check it and take the giant tool chest out of the trunk. If you're sure about it that could be a bad ball joint or control arm bushing. If the wheel is tilted when you drive it might be time to seek out the wizardry of the front end specialist, or at least a 2x4 and a tape measure.

Nost saying you wold need all this but I found this a while ago and decided to share: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Front-an...3?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101004323

what could causing all these problems.? I really like this car and put lots of money into it so I’m not intended to sell it because I won’t get back what spend on it.

Mostly old age, and I like mine too.