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not if the bolt has enough threads on it all the way up. if it doesnt id throw a small washer on there, put the nut on then cotter pin it. but now we are talking about something 4 months ago almost lol
 

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haha i bought the dc5 tie rods off a metalviper here and it's working fine now. the OEM em2 boot did tear but it's still functional. I'm not using it anymore but i did use a washer on the OEM tie rod till i changed it out.
 

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Tools Needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
17mm Socket
Adjustable Wrench
Breaker Bar (optional)
Tie Rod End Separator (pickle fork, ball joint remover, etc)
Lube

Replacement Parts:
2 cotter pins
Tie Rod Ends P/N: 53541-S5A-003
Tie Rod End Lock Nut P/N: 94030-10080

1. Loosen the lug nuts of the front wheels and jack up the car. Place the car on jack stands and remove the wheels.
2. Measure the distance from the tie rod end to the end of the tie rod threading so you can return the tie rod end closest to its original setting.
image

3. Spray the lock nut and tie rod end with PBBlaster or another penetrating oil. Let it sit for a few minutes.
4. Loosen the lock nut on the tie rod by turning it clockwise.
image

5. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end.
6. Remove the 17mm lock nut from the tie rod end.
7. Remove the tie rod end from the pitman arm.
image

8. Unscrew the tie rod end. You may need to hold the tie rod with a wrench if it is rusted on.
8. Screw on the new tie rod.
9. Replace the tie rod end in the pitman arm (may need to apply pressure with a scissor jack) and torque the 17mm lock nut to 33ft/lbs.
10. Install a new cotter pin.
image

11. Adjust the toe so the tie rod end is close to the distance you measured earlier. Turn the tie rod counter clockwise for more toe out, clockwise for toe in. Really tighten down the lock nut!
image

12. Replace the wheels and torque them to the correct specs.
13. Remove jack stands and lower the car.
14. You will most likely need a toe adjustment.
Thank you for this. I've been searching for detailed instructions for tie rod replacement. This is really a big help.
 

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i dropped my car about 3 inches when i took it to get aligned the guy told me i had to get my tie rods extended to get out of the negative camber wear in the front. do you think the only way out is getting the inverted tie rods for the ep3? thanks for the feedback!
 

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Hello everyone, I know this DIY is a bit old but this is precisely what I'm having trouble with on my 2003 Civix EX (EM2). It started after I swapped out my old suspension for a set of Ksport control pro coilovers. I almost thought they had given me the wrong set since no shop would take my car in and Firestone just ripped me of $300 for a tie rod end replacement and an alignment that didn't even work. After I switched the suspension out, I noticed my car would pull to the sides, firestone said they maxed out the alignment adjustment but the toe was still a degree off so i just stood there thinking "how could that be possible?" I then took my car to a shop called "Built by Notorious" since I was told they built cars and did all the mod stuff. They too said they had never seen anything like it and showed me how there was only 2 threads left on my tie rod and how puzzled they were by it, they called Ksport office for me and clarified hoe they get this problem all the time. According to the guy over at Ksport, I should be able to loosen up the 2 bolts that connect the coilover to the front arm assembly of the car and the whole strut should move freely, they advised to move it in another position and then tighten the bolts back up to see if that fixes my problem. Is there anyone here in this forum thst might know how to deal with this or that has installed an aftermarket suspension? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
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