You didn't use the rubber nubs on the gas pedal? Aesthetic choice? or do they not come with the rubber nub layer for the gas pedal?
DIY: Strutking MT Pedal Kit Install
DIY Strutking MT Pedal Kit Install
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Time required: About 45 minutes
Hardware required: None, it's all included in the kit
Tools Required:
1 - Normal length Phillips screwdriver (make sure the end is not rounded)
1 - Stubby Phillips screwdriver
1 - 6mm Allen Key (optional)
1 - 10mm Deep socket with ratchet (optional)
1 - 7mm ratchet or 7mm box wrench
1 - small crescent wrench (not needed if you have the 7mm box wrench)
** Can substitute a small pair of pliars or needlenose here**
2- clamps (optional, but nice to have)
1 - powered drill (drill bit is supplied)
1 - vacuum (optional if you're a slob)
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What's in the box?
- All four pedals if you're manual, three if you have an auto
- 2 packs of self-tapping screws (for dead and gas pedals)
- 2 packs of machine screws with 7mm nylon lock-nuts (for clutch and brake pedals)
- a drill bit
- a thank-you card from StrutKing
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Initial Impression
Wow. Nice looking kit. Well packaged, has everything you'll need to install it aside from some common hand tools. Everything is individually bagged, and the screws are packaged together with the pedals you'll use them on. The pedals themselves have a stick-on piece of plastic to prevent scratches during shipment. Good stuff!
Install
I'm anal. Most of you know this already. So I took my time on the install. Here we go.
The Dead Pedal
I found it easier to just take this off to drill the holes for the cover. Much better than trying get your drill at the proper angle to make the holes. So, to remove the dead pedal, take your 10mm socket and spin the nut off the bottom. Once this is off, set the nut aside.
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Grab your 6mm Allen Key, and spin the plastic washer/nut thing off while you pry upwards on the dead pedal with your fingers. Should pop right off. If you don't have a 6mm Allen Key, just jam a slotted screwdriver into the hole and spin it out that way. Vacuum up all the dirt underneath the dead pedal and clean the dead pedal while you're at it. You just spent $80 or more on nice new pedals, don't get lazy.
Cleanliness is next to foosliness. Remember that.
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Pop the pedal cover on to dead pedal - leave the protective plastic on - and drill your holes. Go slow at first as the ridges of the dead pedal will cause your bit to squib a little until the hole gets started. See?
![]()
Once the holes are drilled, install just the dead pedal back on the vehicle BEFORE putting the pedal cover on. You won't be able to get to that 10mm nut otherwise. Pull the protective film off the cover, and use the five (5) supplied self-tapping screws to secure the cover to the pedal. Get them all started first before tightening them down to a torque of "just about right". The pedal is plastic so don't go all He-man (or he-woman in Steve's case) on them.
Bling!
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Gas Pedal
Each pedal has a distinctive shape so just make sure you put them on correctly.
![]()
Now with these you're going to want to use the clamps. You don't have to, but it sure makes it easier. If you don't have clamps, clothes pins or tape will work in a pinch. You can get a bag of these clamps for like $6 at Wal-Mart though. Anyway, clamp the pedal to the cover like so:
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And drill out one of the bottom holes. Go slow and let the bit do most of the work. If you press too hard, you'll scratch the pedal cover when the bit pops through the other side. It makes a bit of a mess but that's why you have a vacuum.
![]()
Now for these, I drilled the bottom right one, installed the screw (self-tapping), and then did the top left. The top of the pedal is plastic so don't be surprised when the drill just pops right through. Here's the order I did them in. Once I had two of the screws in the clamp came off. You may have to run the bit in and out a few times on the bottom holes to open them up a little. The screw heads strip fairly easily given the you're at and the bit is a titch on the small side as it should be to give the screws something to bite in to.
![]()
Brake pedal
You're going to be using the machine screws and nuts on these. This takes a little more time, but is worth it because these pedals definitely will not slip off like the crappy tab kind.
![]()
Slip the rubber cover off the pedal like so. It comes right off with just your fingers.
![]()
Clamp your new pedal cover to the pedal and drill out the bottom hole. Again let the drill do most of the work. You will probably have to hold the back of the pedal with your non-drilling hand to keep pressure on the drill. Or you could just follow the pedal down with the drill until it stops. If you hold the pedal, just be aware of where the bit is going to come through. Don't pierce your fingers unless you want to. You still have one more pedal to go, wait until that one is done.
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Slide a screw into the hole and then grab your 7mm socket or wrench and tighten it down using the nylon lock nut. Once you get the bottom screw in - tighten it down pretty much all the way - you can take off the clamp and drill the holes for the other two. Here's a shot of the back of the pedal so you have an idea of what I'm talking about.
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Done and done. Too easy. On to the clutch pedal.
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Clutch pedal
This one was the most difficult of the whole bunch simply because I don't have a 7mm box wrench, you'll see why. This being said, I think it took all of 5 minutes longer than the brake pedal. Anyway, slip the rubber cover off again and clamp the new pedal cover over the top like so.
![]()
Drill out the bottom hole and install the nut and screw. Go ahead and tighten this down pretty much the whole way. Do the same on the top left and the top right. Now the clutch pedal is kind of a pain for two reasons. My aftermarket clutch is fairly hard to push the pedal down, so use your stubby screwdriver here since there isn't much clearance between the pedal and the dash. Also, the weight on the back of the clutch pedal interferes with a socket, so you have to use a wrench of some sort (or pliars if you don't have one) to hold the nut in place while you tighten it down. If you have a 7mm box wrench, this is a non-issue. See what I mean?
![]()
Tighten the bolts down and that's it!
![]()
Full shots of all pedals
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Conclusion
Install went really smoothly. Admittedly, this isn't a head swap or clutch install, but it's always nice when something goes smooth. I really like them as I'm a big fan of brushed silver accents on a car. Kevin (owner of strutking.com) is a stand-up guy and has developed a nice product in my opinion. He's even doing a group buy for the pedal. I haven't driven with them yet, but they feel decent when I was just jockeying the car around to put in the garage for the night.
Good stuff and gets the 'foos seal of approval!
Oh, here's the link for the group buy:
StrutKing Pedal Set Group Buy thread
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Time required: About 45 minutes
Hardware required: None, it's all included in the kit
Tools Required:
1 - Normal length Phillips screwdriver (make sure the end is not rounded)
1 - Stubby Phillips screwdriver
1 - 6mm Allen Key (optional)
1 - 10mm Deep socket with ratchet (optional)
1 - 7mm ratchet or 7mm box wrench
1 - small crescent wrench (not needed if you have the 7mm box wrench)
** Can substitute a small pair of pliars or needlenose here**
2- clamps (optional, but nice to have)
1 - powered drill (drill bit is supplied)
1 - vacuum (optional if you're a slob)
What's in the box?
- All four pedals if you're manual, three if you have an auto
- 2 packs of self-tapping screws (for dead and gas pedals)
- 2 packs of machine screws with 7mm nylon lock-nuts (for clutch and brake pedals)
- a drill bit
- a thank-you card from StrutKing
Initial Impression
Wow. Nice looking kit. Well packaged, has everything you'll need to install it aside from some common hand tools. Everything is individually bagged, and the screws are packaged together with the pedals you'll use them on. The pedals themselves have a stick-on piece of plastic to prevent scratches during shipment. Good stuff!
Install
I'm anal. Most of you know this already. So I took my time on the install. Here we go.
The Dead Pedal
I found it easier to just take this off to drill the holes for the cover. Much better than trying get your drill at the proper angle to make the holes. So, to remove the dead pedal, take your 10mm socket and spin the nut off the bottom. Once this is off, set the nut aside.
Grab your 6mm Allen Key, and spin the plastic washer/nut thing off while you pry upwards on the dead pedal with your fingers. Should pop right off. If you don't have a 6mm Allen Key, just jam a slotted screwdriver into the hole and spin it out that way. Vacuum up all the dirt underneath the dead pedal and clean the dead pedal while you're at it. You just spent $80 or more on nice new pedals, don't get lazy.
Cleanliness is next to foosliness. Remember that.
Pop the pedal cover on to dead pedal - leave the protective plastic on - and drill your holes. Go slow at first as the ridges of the dead pedal will cause your bit to squib a little until the hole gets started. See?
Once the holes are drilled, install just the dead pedal back on the vehicle BEFORE putting the pedal cover on. You won't be able to get to that 10mm nut otherwise. Pull the protective film off the cover, and use the five (5) supplied self-tapping screws to secure the cover to the pedal. Get them all started first before tightening them down to a torque of "just about right". The pedal is plastic so don't go all He-man (or he-woman in Steve's case) on them.
Bling!
Gas Pedal
Each pedal has a distinctive shape so just make sure you put them on correctly.
Now with these you're going to want to use the clamps. You don't have to, but it sure makes it easier. If you don't have clamps, clothes pins or tape will work in a pinch. You can get a bag of these clamps for like $6 at Wal-Mart though. Anyway, clamp the pedal to the cover like so:
And drill out one of the bottom holes. Go slow and let the bit do most of the work. If you press too hard, you'll scratch the pedal cover when the bit pops through the other side. It makes a bit of a mess but that's why you have a vacuum.
Now for these, I drilled the bottom right one, installed the screw (self-tapping), and then did the top left. The top of the pedal is plastic so don't be surprised when the drill just pops right through. Here's the order I did them in. Once I had two of the screws in the clamp came off. You may have to run the bit in and out a few times on the bottom holes to open them up a little. The screw heads strip fairly easily given the you're at and the bit is a titch on the small side as it should be to give the screws something to bite in to.
Brake pedal
You're going to be using the machine screws and nuts on these. This takes a little more time, but is worth it because these pedals definitely will not slip off like the crappy tab kind.
Slip the rubber cover off the pedal like so. It comes right off with just your fingers.
Clamp your new pedal cover to the pedal and drill out the bottom hole. Again let the drill do most of the work. You will probably have to hold the back of the pedal with your non-drilling hand to keep pressure on the drill. Or you could just follow the pedal down with the drill until it stops. If you hold the pedal, just be aware of where the bit is going to come through. Don't pierce your fingers unless you want to. You still have one more pedal to go, wait until that one is done.
Slide a screw into the hole and then grab your 7mm socket or wrench and tighten it down using the nylon lock nut. Once you get the bottom screw in - tighten it down pretty much all the way - you can take off the clamp and drill the holes for the other two. Here's a shot of the back of the pedal so you have an idea of what I'm talking about.
Done and done. Too easy. On to the clutch pedal.
Clutch pedal
This one was the most difficult of the whole bunch simply because I don't have a 7mm box wrench, you'll see why. This being said, I think it took all of 5 minutes longer than the brake pedal. Anyway, slip the rubber cover off again and clamp the new pedal cover over the top like so.
Drill out the bottom hole and install the nut and screw. Go ahead and tighten this down pretty much the whole way. Do the same on the top left and the top right. Now the clutch pedal is kind of a pain for two reasons. My aftermarket clutch is fairly hard to push the pedal down, so use your stubby screwdriver here since there isn't much clearance between the pedal and the dash. Also, the weight on the back of the clutch pedal interferes with a socket, so you have to use a wrench of some sort (or pliars if you don't have one) to hold the nut in place while you tighten it down. If you have a 7mm box wrench, this is a non-issue. See what I mean?
Tighten the bolts down and that's it!
Full shots of all pedals
Conclusion
Install went really smoothly. Admittedly, this isn't a head swap or clutch install, but it's always nice when something goes smooth. I really like them as I'm a big fan of brushed silver accents on a car. Kevin (owner of strutking.com) is a stand-up guy and has developed a nice product in my opinion. He's even doing a group buy for the pedal. I haven't driven with them yet, but they feel decent when I was just jockeying the car around to put in the garage for the night.
Good stuff and gets the 'foos seal of approval!
Oh, here's the link for the group buy:
StrutKing Pedal Set Group Buy thread
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