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one of my rear strut bolts was super hard too. you just got to tighten and loosen it a lot.

stop buying adapter and buy real tools lol
:D Been trying to find a 17mm socket with a 1/2" drive that won't break... at least so there's no adapter on the breaker bar... no dice... :(

Got the front springs and camber bolts on tonight though, still can't get those rear struts out though... :wtc:
 

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use a torch to heat it up, probably seized in the bushing, works everytime
wont it melt the bushing? how long should the bolt be heated for? i have the same issues with the rear lower camber bolt not coming out.
 

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wont it melt the bushing? how long should the bolt be heated for? i have the same issues with the rear lower camber bolt not coming out.
I'm picking up a torch tonight when I return the tie-rod tool that I rented and I'll let you know what it takes... One way or another they're coming out tonight... LOL :tup:

Kind of a side question... I noticed when I did the front last night that my index arrows were completely gone, I was very careful to try and put things back on the same as stock but the tophats and bearings just aren't right, I have the infamous popping noises. Anyone have any tricks or should I just see about buying new... :wtc: Or can I loosen everything on top to move them around and pray that by some miracle I get them lined up?
 

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Looks like a great DIY. Might be using this in the near future...

I did call a shop and asked for a quote on coilover install, they said 3 hours for the front and 4-5 hours for the rear.... I know I'm a noob but don't you guys install coils faster than that? And at $95/hr I do NOT want to spend that kind of money.

EDIT: I think I'm going to try the install myself with some rokkor coils :eek:hnoes:

Since I'm not installing springs I just skip steps 19-20 and 27-29?
Or do I need some parts from the stock setup?
 

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wont it melt the bushing? how long should the bolt be heated for? i have the same issues with the rear lower camber bolt not coming out.
yes if you apply heat to the bushing. but if done right you dont damage it that much.

rear lower camber bolt? do you mean toe bolt?
their is no rear, lower, camber bolt.. but the toe bolt is a "cam bolt"

not sure why you need that out though lol
 

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Looks like a great DIY. Might be using this in the near future...

I did call a shop and asked for a quote on coilover install, they said 3 hours for the front and 4-5 hours for the rear.... I know I'm a noob but don't you guys install coils faster than that? And at $95/hr I do NOT want to spend that kind of money.

EDIT: I think I'm going to try the install myself with some rokkor coils :eek:hnoes:

Since I'm not installing springs I just skip steps 19-20 and 27-29?
Or do I need some parts from the stock setup?
I can do all four corners in 2 hours tops. if not less. fuck shops lol pneumatic tools make it faster.

if you get full coils.(rokkors are, well, almost.) you still have to take the old suspension apart to use the oem tophats..
 

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I can do all four corners in 2 hours tops. if not less. fuck shops lol pneumatic tools make it faster.

if you get full coils.(rokkors are, well, almost.) you still have to take the old suspension apart to use the oem tophats..

Took me 2 hours to just do the front with breaker bar and hand tools... I highly suggest renting the puller pictured in the DIY from a store if you don't have one. Saved me oodles of time...
 

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yes if you apply heat to the bushing. but if done right you dont damage it that much.

rear lower camber bolt? do you mean toe bolt?
their is no rear, lower, camber bolt.. but the toe bolt is a "cam bolt"

not sure why you need that out though lol
well, the bottom bolt holding in the rear shock in place was seized up, and everything i tried would not get it out. so i figured i would take the whole rear lower control arm off. well in my haste, i tired hammering out the toe bolt without having the nut on the end, and flared the bolt out. This bolt is also seized. so i have been riding around with out a nut on the end. dangerous i know. i havent take the car above 50 mph since july.
 

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That happened to me when i was getting my springs on. I had to take it to the shop and have them try. The fuckers tried to show off their impact wrench to me as if i hadn't tried that. I broke a shitty wrench in the process of trying it myself. The guy tried an impact wrench, and a breaker bar. Then tried a 6 ft breaker bar and still couldnt get it. He had to put heat on it till it came out.

Luckily i got a direct fit bolt (stock from honda) for like 2 bucks the day after i broke my wrench. Shop had it on in 30 minutes. Thought i was going to have to put down some serious dough, and it worked out.
 

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That happened to me when i was getting my springs on. I had to take it to the shop and have them try. The fuckers tried to show off their impact wrench to me as if i hadn't tried that. I broke a shitty wrench in the process of trying it myself. The guy tried an impact wrench, and a breaker bar. Then tried a 6 ft breaker bar and still couldnt get it. He had to put heat on it till it came out.

Luckily i got a direct fit bolt (stock from honda) for like 2 bucks the day after i broke my wrench. Shop had it on in 30 minutes. Thought i was going to have to put down some serious dough, and it worked out.
Well I'm trying heat and that still isn't doing shit... :dunno: Should I burn up the bushing a little bit or put all the heat on the bolt or what???
 

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Is it possible to just un bolt the two bolts on top of the strut inside the trunk, disconnect the camber arm and drop the strut out and just not even screw with this damn bolt!!! :pisschair::pisschair:
 

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I rode around for a day after dropping so i could still go to work and get it fixed. The shop only charged me like $20 to do it. Hate not having a lift to work on my car. :(
 

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Is it possible to just un bolt the two bolts on top of the strut inside the trunk, disconnect the camber arm and drop the strut out and just not even screw with this damn bolt!!! :pisschair::pisschair:
yes this is possible depending on what springs are currently on the rear strut.

I rode around for a day after dropping so i could still go to work and get it fixed. The shop only charged me like $20 to do it. Hate not having a lift to work on my car. :(
low pro jack $100-$150 2 2-ton jack stands $30-$50 all you need to do 90% of the work on our cars. or cheaper, well that and a good socket set.
 

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yes this is possible depending on what springs are currently on the rear strut.



low pro jack $100-$150 2 2-ton jack stands $30-$50 all you need to do 90% of the work on our cars. or cheaper, well that and a good socket set.

Currently the stock springs are still on the back...
 

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if that strut bolt still doesnt come out. I can suggest to grind the welds off slightly and use a breaker bar to get off the welded nut. but I dont think you have much clearance for that if I recall. you can still use the nut after you get it off.. then just bang/pry out the bolt.
 

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if that strut bolt still doesnt come out. I can suggest to grind the welds off slightly and use a breaker bar to get off the welded nut. but I dont think you have much clearance for that if I recall. you can still use the nut after you get it off.. then just bang/pry out the bolt.
Finally got these out on Friday last week... w00t :D

Took a long time but basically I finally got them by removing the two nuts inside the car and propping each side under a jack so I had enough clearance to get my breaker bar completely in the wheel well. :tup: Then I was able to turn each far enough to finally get the bolts out because they no longer turned back the entire distance they had just been loosened like they did initially...
 

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Yeah, I had always used a spring compressor. It barely moves though. I wouldn't do it if I had a compressor readily available, but if not, no worries, stand on it!:coffee:
Ok, well I tried this method again when installing some different springs on a buddies car and didn't get good results. Just as I was removing the top nut, the strut bearing busted open. I'm not sure 100% but I am thinking this was due to the pressure exerted on the bearing by not being in a compressor. I understand that the bearings could have been busted, but I don't think so, it was a 2010 with 2k miles :dunno:
 

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the spring compressor does what its called. compresses the spring. if the spring is compressed, you can safely remove the middle nut, the strut bolt. if the spring was not compressed all the way. the top nut would/will shoot off. the bearings may fall out either way, even if the spring is compressed. the bearings arent seated into the plates too well. grease is the only thing really holding them in place

some of the older cars with double wishbone suspension, its kind off difficult to get the compressors inside those springs. not impossible but very hard.
 
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