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This mod is not for the weak. It took us two days to do it. Plus we were installing my suspension. Common snags were 1) bolts that were too tight, 2) stubborn bushings, 3) not having access to a vice, and 4) mistakes. I suggest dropping both control arms first then start in on the bushings. If you are replacing your entire suspension (i.e. coilovers/springs/camber kits), then do it now!! Air tools also would be helpful. Items you will need
- 1 jack
- 2 jack stands
- A whole socket set, all the way up to a 19 with small, medium and large socket wrenches
- Potentially a breaker bar
- 1 butane/propane torch, lighter fluid, volcano....anything that burns!
- 1 one foot long rod that you can screw a nut on
- 1 large washer that can fit over the long rod and is big enough to go over the bushing hole
- 1 smaller washer
- a few misc. nuts that can screw over the rod. I got one small one and one longer one
- an adjustable wrench or two
- C-Clamp
- Vice attached to a bench
- A flat head screwdriver
- Hammer
- Silicone grease, usually supplied
- The bushings
- LOTS OF TIME!

1) Loosen the lug nuts on the rear tires
2) Jack up both sides and put on jack stands
3) Remove the rear wheels
4) Detach the endlink from either the control arm or the sway bar (5mm allen in the inside and a socket for the outside)
5) If you are replacing the camber kit at the same time, now is the time to replace it!



*Note: After these steps, loosen all bolts, but leave them attached!!!!!

6) There are 5 bolts for the control arm and loosen them in this order!
a. Loosen two bolts that hold the control arm to the brake hub. Make sure you have something to prop up the brake hub so the brake line does not rip/break.
b. Loosen the two bolts underneath the rear jack point
c. Finally, loosen the bolt that holds the control arm to the subframe (the one you can see in the back of the car)
d. Remove all bolts (Control arm, 2 near the jack point, the two near the brake hub and the one holding the shock on. REMEMBER – keep track of what bolts go where!!!!

7) Now you have the control arm out. There are 3 bushings – two attached to the brake hub and one that attached to the frame of the car.





8) The one that is underneath the rear jack point with the handles in it, you have to “break” the glue holding those together. The best way to do it is to put one side in a vice grip and grab the other one with an adjustable wrench. You might need two (or three or a strong man) people to do this. This task is going to be the hardest part. You will have to wiggle it constantly until the both come out. WIGGLE, WIGGLE, WIGGLE!!
9) After you have those out, you will need a butane/propane torch and a lot of time. You must melt the glue and/or burn the rubber out enough until you can bang it out. Trust me, this part takes a lot of time. We had mine on the grill, on fire, we used lighter fluid…anything we could throw at it, we did…finally it came out. Once it starts to get loose, insert flat head screwdriver and hammer the bitch out!
10) Once you have the bushing out, clean the inside of the hole well with some water.

11) Now onto the other bushings.
12) This is where you will need the threaded rod, nuts and washers.
13) Insert the threaded rod through one bushing. Before you get through the other bushing, add the smaller washer and the small nut. Screw them to the bushing. Add the other longer nut to the other end.



14) Screw the nut next to the washer to push the other bushing out.











15) Repeat on the other side but use the larger washer to fit over the bushing hole



16) Now it is time to insert the bushings. Let’s start with the brake hub ones. The bushings are the same but the inside middle piece is different because the screws are different. You have to match the right metal insert with the right screw or you will be forced to redo them.
17) Grease up the bushings and insert them. Insert the metal insert. You might need a c-clamp to get it all together but it isn’t that bad.



18) Finally, success!!



19) There are three pieces for the bushing that attaches to the near the jack point. Grease up the middle piece and stick that in. Grease up the outer ones and stick in the handles. Make sure to attach the handles in a way that will make it easy to screw to the car.
20) Put everything back together and don’t forget to torque everything down to spec!!! I had specs at one point, but I don’t currently. I think the two bolts near the jack point are 118lbs, but that is all I remember.
 

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The Almighty
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its a good diy, i been considering doing this for a while, did the front, and took me 2 hours total, but i have a vice and press and whatnot, so not terrible.
 

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Canyon Driver
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252 Posts
Nice DIY

- 1 butane/propane torch, lighter fluid, volcano....anything that burns!
Volcano's don't burn, they vaporize!! :smoke3: mmm, German engineering at its finest!
http://www.vapeworld.com/vaporizers/volcano-vaporizer?gclid=CJLWxZDLxZ8CFVw55Qod4HHJ3Q


sorry for the noob question but how does this help? and by that i mean what does changing the stock one out for the poly one?
The stock rubber bushings allow for more flex and movement. This makes for a more comfortable ride, but sacrifices some performance. By replacing the rubber bushings with polyurethane you tighten up the suspension and increase the handling, similar to installing stiffer springs. The next step up from poly's is all metal spherical bushings, which give an extremely rough ride, but no flex, that's what a true race car would be running. These are an excellent middle area for someone who wants better performance from their ride, but doesn't want their vertebraes compressed.
 

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im doing the rear enery suspension now and i was wondering if im missing a metal sleeve for the rear brake hub my kit only has one sleeve for them what should i do?
 

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Thanks for the write up...getting started on this today. Hopefully no issues. :)
 

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OK....so wth? I don't see how the front most bushings on the control arms that connect to the frame come off. There are metal rings bigger than the hole in the control arm, so they don't come out. So are you supposed to cut those off before removing? These bushings are clearly pictured by OP with an adjustable wrench stuck on them.

If you cut the inner metal rod with the metal rings on the outside, then you no longer have anything to hold the new bushings. I called Honda and they said they don't come off, you just buy a whole arm if you want to replace those....help? Do they sell after market metal rods without the metal rings around them?

Also, FYI for anyone doing this, there are cam bolts in the rear bolt hole for the brake hub spindle...at this age these bolts are notorious for rusting to the inside metal sleeve. Impossible to remove without torching etc. Honda sells the new bolts for $5 a piece.
 

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Oh man, I tried to do this job last autumn, but I failed. Looks like I was doing it about right, just was not agressive enough :)
I did the fronts anyway, but will do the rears this spring.

I tried to do this on the car - did not unbold the LCA bolts.
 

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What about the bushing on the front of the trailing arm? Does anyone have another way to remove this one? Does the new one just get pressed in? Is there glue that needs to go back in the bushing? Also my rear passenger side tire is wearing on the outside of the tire. Is there anything I can check to see what might be causing this.
 

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how do you get the ears that connect to the upper most part of the mount back together. as well did you bend them at all in the process of trying to get them off. this is becoming the hardest part of the replacement so far. i am just looking to replace this bushing and cant even start to get the bushing out without these ears out firs .
 

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where you said to put one side in the vice and use a wrench to "break" the glue does that mean that one will spin to break from the other if you pull it apart. and are they threaded if so? do i need to be pulling counter clock wise?
 
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