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Discussion Starter #1



So first things first. Gather all your tools:
-Torque wrench good for 43 ft-lbs (only torque used)
-the correct bit for LCA bolts
-Ratchet set (Only need 19mm for the LCA- Chassis Pivot bolt)
-Torch (for those seized bolts)
-Jack & Two jack stands

So now you will want to jack up your car. Mine is so low I couldn't get the jack under the sub-frame with a block on top, so I jacked using the trailing arms. Once jack is high enough slip a jack stand under jacking point to hold the car up on both sides.



Remove the rear tires



Locate all the LCA bolts and loosen them to hand tight (Torch might need to be used, don't try to turn if they are stuck, just heat until they are easy to remove)




Now fully remove the three bolts, then remove the one bolt holding LCA's into sub-frame.Now you have the old one removed



And a comparison between the two



Now start by putting the bolt through the sub-frame and bushing side of LCA (Picture shows opposite, but I learned it was easiest to do it bushing side first)



tighten all the bolts until they start grabbing with some force, and look at your handy haynes manual. All 4 bolt specs are 43 ft-lbs.




Torque the bolts.



Repeat for other side then sit back, drink a beer and congratulate yourself.



Now put the wheels back on, lower the car back to earth and take it for a little test drive.



Voila, New LCA's
 

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FCUK FAKE SPLITS!!!
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GOOD DIY!!!

thx
 

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thanks for the DIY. good write up.

one question is a alignment needed after replacing the LCA's?????
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the DIY. good write up.

one question is a alignment needed after replacing the LCA's?????
My camber is already way out because of lowering it without camber kit. And I hit 120 km/h in it already and no tire howl. So i would assume toe wasn't affected much. Still probably recommended to get an alignment done after installing, as with any other suspension upgrade.
 

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to:oniondip I am also planning to do the same. How much did Skunk 2 cost? do you feel some changes in driving?
 

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only problem i'm having is getting the bolts back into the trailing arm... any suggestions to how to get them back in? One bolt goes in perfectly while 2 others goes in half way and starts giving me problems. I think i can use a very long breaker bar and force them all the way in slowly.... but i would hate to run the chance of breaking the stockk bolts or stripping them badly....help?

It is in fact the hole that is giving me problems because it happens with or without the LCA on... is there any way the trailing arm holes can be misaligned?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
only problem i'm having is getting the bolts back into the trailing arm... any suggestions to how to get them back in? One bolt goes in perfectly while 2 others goes in half way and starts giving me problems. I think i can use a very long breaker bar and force them all the way in slowly.... but i would hate to run the chance of breaking the stockk bolts or stripping them badly....help?

It is in fact the hole that is giving me problems because it happens with or without the LCA on... is there any way the trailing arm holes can be misaligned?
With suspension parts, and most other things on cars DO NOT FORCE BOLTS IN/OUT most bolts have specific torque, and when you go over it you will strech the threads past normal. If it won't go in there is a reason. Could be rusted threads inside since most after market LCA bolts are longer because aftermarket LCA's are thicker. So the bolt is going past where the old one is. figure out the thread and run a tap through it to clean the holes. Put a bit of white grease on the threads help push all the crap to the end of threads rather than jamming up. And finally if that doesn't work, heat the bolt up a bit, then try to turn it in.

EDIT: Shine a light in the hole. You should be able to see where the threads end. Just make sure you are not crossthreading the bolt. Also take this time to see if there is any crap gummed up in the threads.
 

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alright for sure. thanks for your reply. I took the stock bolts out with ease...but getting them back in is very hard. I'm also not running any new bolts so the size is the same. I'll take more time and examine the hole this weekend to see what else can be causing the problem...


so i'm assuming everyone here got their bolts back into the hole without any problems?
 

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^^^Go to all lengths to NOT break any oem bolt or it will be a huge pain. Use tons of locktite/releaseall and let it work, then try heat, be patient with it.

Nice diy, I'm planning on getting the rear progress sway bar in the coming months, and I think I'm gonna have to snatch up a pair of these too...they are a little pricey though. I've been looking at the megan ones also.
 

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:tup: good diy
those lca look good...now im thinkin bout gettin some
 
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