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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after many hours of tinkering in the garage after classes, my Y8 intake mani conversion is finally done. The only thing I have left to do is weld some little tabbies onto the fuel rail so it will bolt up too, but since I only have one fuel rail, thats gonna have to wait. So let me know what you think, and any good suggestions as to what I may have missed or haven't thought of. sorry for the crappier photos, but you'll get the idea.

here it is


iacv got stuffed with jb weld


my nifty adapter plate


a big drill bit and some time, and the srt-4 injectors fit




not perfect but its good enough for me


a little side project, this is like the 5th time I've redone this stupid wire cover. i'm still debating as to wether i want to airbrush a 'turbo' or 'civic' or something on top of it.
 

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Looks good, I like your solution for the TB. You had the same idea I did, just acted on it first. I'm thinking about getting a plate CNC machined that will do the same job, and that way I can be damn sure the ports match. Just for future reference, if you get a Y8 manifold from a Civic that had an automatic, you won't have the IACV on the IM to deal with. No holes to plug.

So I take it you're using an aftermarket EMS if you're using SRT-4 injectors?
 

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Don't forget to plug that old coolant line on the bottom left of the Y8 mani flange. What kind of bit did you use to open up the injector ports and did you do it by hand or with a drill press?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
that is quite the project, very nice work, nice and clean, did u airbrush that wirecover urself??? that looks awesome!
thanks, i airbrush a little. i'm not that great, but i can do some things.

I'm thinking about getting a plate CNC machined that will do the same job, and that way I can be damn sure the ports match.
i thought about getting a plate cnc'ed too, but i'm doing this home made turbo style, sooo steel it is. the ports aren't perfect, but they are close enough, and they'll do until i get the money for a fabtech mani.

Don't forget to plug that old coolant line on the bottom left of the Y8 mani flange. What kind of bit did you use to open up the injector ports and did you do it by hand or with a drill press?
i've got an 01 lx, and no egr to deal with. you think i should still plug that coolant port? will it cause problems with the gasket sealing properly or what? i just used a 1/2" bit and patience to bore it out a little. it was a really really close fit as it was, just a hair too small. they seat in there pretty tightly now.

its all in preparation for christmas break. i'm swapping this in, doing a return fuel conversion, installing the aem ems, and getting it retuned shooting for 240 hp as soon as finals are over.
 

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really..quality is that poor...hmm...I can get the manifold for $40 new...Maybe i'll just give'r and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
if you're doing it on the cheap like me, you might as well go with the proven quality of oem. just pick up a y8 mani. even using the obx mani, you will still have the same amount of work converting it to fit the d17, plus its a pos. i did it the hard way though, refusing to swap to the y8 fuel rail and tb, it could be considerably easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alrighty.. so... I got this manifold strapped to my cylinder head, but not without issue. Everything is hooked up, all fitted, and sort of running. I did an idle relearn and it seems to be functioning normally, but its got a high idle at about 1100 rpm. I figured since I was sticking with the d17 tb, I wouldn't really have that problem. Seeing as I do, how should I go about fixing it? I had a vac leak but slathered the throttle body adapter plate with rtv sealant and the bouncy idle is fixed now, but still high. And on a suspiciously related note, I have a high pitched screetchy noise that is really annoying. I think it might be a pinhole leak in the welding on the adapter plate causing it, but I'm not entirely sure. Any thoughts on the high idle or the screechy would be very helpful.
 

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But on a side note, yes, that high pitched noise is air being sucked into a pinhole leak which will also cause your idle to be too high. Grab a can of carb cleaner and start surgically spraying around the welds to find the leak. Once you find it, JB Weld it shut. Once that cures it should be fine.
 
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