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Old 12-11-2008, 05:29 PM   #1
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Default DIY: Engine Mounts Removal and Installation

This DIY is for the Removal and Installation of the
Front Motor Mount
Rear Motor Mount
Transmission Mount

If your front and rear motor mounts are broken, I suggest buying inserts from Energy Suspension. They cost around 30.00. These inserts fit around your regular mounts to keep the center of the mount stiff. It also provides stiffness for shifting and such things.
(NOTE INSTALLING THESE INSERTS ON GOOD MOUNTS MIGHT CAUSE MORE VIBRATION THROUGHOUT THE CAR, THAN USUAL – ESPECIALLY THE REAR MOTOR MOUNT)
There are no inserts sold for the Transmission Mount according to me, if I am wrong PM so that I can edit this. If Transmission Mount is broken, just buy a new one at Honda. They run for about 70.00

Tools I used for the Job
OEM JACK
DURALAST JACK
PIECES OF THICK WOOD OR BRICKS
1 JACK STAND
RAMP
17mm Socket
14mm Socket
12mm Socket
Extensions
Long Neck thing that you attach the socket to (don’t know what it’s called lol)
WD 40

Let’s start off by removing the Front Engine Mount…..(located right under/on front of header)

1.Pull e-brake up, and into gear for manual or parking for automatics
2.Jack up the car so you have enough space to work under the car (you can use jacks/jackstands, but I would HIGHLY recommend a ramp
3.WD 40 bolts that will need to be removed…. For the front engine mount you will have 3 bolts in total, all 17mm. Here is a picture of it taken out and the arrow pointing at the bolts location. Center bolt holds the mount/mount center to the subrame, the other two bolts are attached to the tranny

4.Jack up the tranny while you let the WD 40 loosen up these bolts (they might be kinda tight because of regular stress, wear, rust, etc… so better to wd40 and not risk braking a bolt) The tranny can be lifted with any jack, I did it with the oem jack and placed various pieces of thick wood between the top of the jack and the tranny. This is done so that the you can lift the weight off the mount/mounts. You can also do this with a duralast jack and pieces of brick






5.First Remove the Bolt attaching the center of the mount to the subrame
6.Then proceed by removing the bolts attaching the actual mount to the transmission
7.Front motor mount should now slip right out
8.Installation is vice versa, (if installing energy suspension inserts just place the inserts around it place the mount with the energy suspension inserts in the subrame, then the bolt throught it) as easy as plug and play) When bolting in the mount to the subrame you might need to lower the tranny or raise it up a bit to align in the bolt






THIS IS AN EXAMPLE OF A BROKEN MOUNT



Now let’s remove the Transmission Mount (located on the left side when facing your engine bay, under the resonator)



1.same as 1st step for Front Motor Mount
2.same as 2nd step for Front Motor Mount
3.WD 40 bolts that will need to be removed…. Transmission mount consists of 5 bolts/nuts and a bracket. 2 nuts attached the bracket to the transmission, 1 bolt attaches the bracket to the mount, 2 bolts attach the mount to the frame of the car (chassis)



4. Same as 4th step for front motor mount
5.Now it’s time to remove the bolts. Start with the bolt holding the bracket to the mount. Then remove the 2 nuts holding the bracket to the tranny, then remove the 2 bolts holding the mount to the frame
6.Replace this Tranny mount with a new oem mount
7.Installation starts by bolting the bracket to the mount, then the mount to the frame, then the bracket to the tranny





Lets now remove the Rear Motor Mount Located right on back of the engine, somewhat under/behind throttle body, on top of the rear of the subframe, on top of the pipe that goes from the headers to the cat, under tie rod



1.same as 1st step for Front Motor Mount
2.same as 2nd step for Front Motor Mount






3.WD 40 bolts that will need to be removed…. There are quite a number of bolts… The actual mount consists of 3 bolts holding it to the subframe, 1 bolt holding it on to the bracket, and 3 other bolts holding the bracket to the rear of the tranny. Also WD 40 the 2 12mm bolts attaching the headers to the cat pipe







4.Same as 4th Step for Front motor mount
5.Before we move any further, the header to cat pipe thing needed to be removed because it might be extremely difficult to take out some of the bolts, including one located right over the cat as illustrated in one of the pictures…. This will be hanging so I suggest you get a jack/jackstand to hold it up… also loosen up the rubber piece that holds where the cat is to the car




6.Now start by removing the 12mm bolts of the header to the catpipe, and secure on jack. Also remove the rubber that holds the cat in place, and try to move the cat back thing to the side so it will not bother you
7.Remove 3 bolts (all 14mm) holding the mount to the subframe , then remove the bolt holding the bracket to the mount/mount insert, then remove the bolts holding the bracket to the tranny. Now everything should slip out
8.For installation of the inserts follow the same procedures as the FRONT MOTOR MOUNT. AT TIMES SOME TRIMMING MIGHT BE REQUIRED. IF INSERT IS ATTACHED TO THE MOUNT, YOU MIGHT FEEL MORE VIBRATION THAN USUAL
9.Here are some pics of this mount








10.Installation is vice versa, if you have any difficult then install the mount to the bracket first, then the bracket to the tranny, then the mount to the subframe. Leave the cat pipe 12mm bolts for last. You can also slightly hammer so bolts so that you can align then into the holes. That is why some bolts have sort of a cone ending. SLIGHTLY THOUGH JUST TO ALIGN IT SO THAT YOU CAN BOLT IT IT

Things I have new clue if they are really necessary
Jacking up the tranny or motor
Things that are not necessary BUT RECOMMENDED
WD 40 all those bolts before unscrewing, and also while unscrewed
If there are any disagreements, concerns, or incorrect things let me know, and I will address them ASAP
OTHER PICS DURING INSTALL










PLEASE USE COMMON SENSE FOR SOME THINGS LIKE I SAID BEFORE, IF YOU USE A RAMP, DON’T PULL THE EBRAKE BEFORE DRIVING ON THE RAMP etc
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Last edited by cheo_papi; 12-30-2008 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:23 AM   #2
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+1 good diy. it'll be even gooder if you included the rear mount install.
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Old 12-12-2008, 08:18 AM   #3
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Nice write up. I'll be doing my transmission mount in the spring probably. Do you have to take off the bracket that is attached to the transmission?
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Old 12-12-2008, 09:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bis View Post
+1 good diy. it'll be even gooder if you included the rear mount install.
im going to analyze it over the weeked, cuz that mount looks crazy complicated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DDragon7 View Post
Nice write up. I'll be doing my transmission mount in the spring probably. Do you have to take off the bracket that is attached to the transmission?
.... not sure... reason why I took it off is so that i can easily reach the bolt right under the mount.
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Old 12-12-2008, 10:29 AM   #5
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GOOD JOB Cheo Very nice DIY ill will be keeping this for future refrence
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:22 AM   #6
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good job....i remember when i had to change my transmission and frony mount....did the same thing as yours......
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Old 12-25-2008, 10:15 AM   #7
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if it does not rain in Miami tomorrow, I will be doing the rear engine mount, it is extremely easy, just that i need a ramp so get under the car comfortably. I will keep you guys posted.
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:54 AM   #8
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links are broken...
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by portaman03 View Post
links are broken...
im going to redo the links.... i had a problem with photobucket... it'll be up later on.
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:01 AM   #10
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Bumb for a revised and better written diy and the rear motor mount install addition!!!!!!! With pics....sorry for those with slow computers
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