Code P1457 "EVAP emission control system leak detected"

[yodachoda87]

I'm an idiot, my light is a check engine light, not an oil pressure light! Kinda a relief, because my actual problem isn't as serious as I thought. Code is P1457.

When I start the car cold, there is a slight grinding/tapping noise that disappears after I start driving.

I took a quick look under the hood, and noticed that it appears like the right side connection between the exhaust manifold and the pipe leading to underneath the car has broken off. It definetly looks different than the left side (which looks fine), but I couldn't get a good view so I don't know for sure how damaged/cracked the connection is.

Probable causes are "Loose fuel cap, Vapor canister saturated, failed vent solenoid, or failed purge solenoid". I'm sure its not loose fuel cap.

Could this bad connection between exhaust manifold and pipe be the cause of my P1457 code (even though it wasn't listed under probable causes)? If so I'll probably buy a header off ebay and pay a shop to install in and replace that broken connection. Thanks.

[timbo]

The 1457 code like you said is for the evap system. The loose connection at your exhaust will not throw a 1457 code. There is most likely a problem with either a purge valve or 2way/bypass valve. There is a TSB i believe on the bypass valve being updated.

[Greeenie]

again, has been said before, take it to ur mechanic. this is obviously above you. You simply should not be driving, or even breeding, u should seriously consider a vasectomy as you are not intelligent enough to be allowed to procreate.

[speedfoos]

You know Yoda, I almost want to meet you in person because the shit you post simply baffles me.

[robertschultz1]

^^^ LMAO!

[RHCP0801]

lmao clint, i agree

[yankeechess]

I had the same problem with Code 1457 EVAP Purge Solenoid on your charcoal canister has to be replaced! I bought a used canister complete with the EVAP solenoid valve from a 79,000 mile parts car and it did not work as my CE light came back on! I then bought a used complete EVAP charcoal canister with solenoid off of a parts car with only 10,000 miles (free of rust) on it and it has worked perfectly! I reset my codes and it has been off ever since! You can try to do what I did, but the easiest fix is to get a new EVAP Purge Solenoid! Installation is not difficult! You just got to get down and dirty under the car! The Charcoal canister is located to the rear of your gas tank! You can't miss it as it is a black plastic rectangular box. The purge solenoid is attached to it on the left (driver) side of the canister. Two screws hold it on. It has an electric plug and a small hose coming from it! Once you have installed it, reset your codes if you have an auto code scanner. If you don't, disconnect your battery cables for at least ten minutes and reconnect! Your CE should be off! If you solved the problem, your CE will stay off! If not, it will come back on within 3 days or around 300 miles! Here in NY State, before I got mine fixed, I needed an inspection, so I reset my codes the day prior to my inspection and had no problems getting passed! The following day after my inspection, my CE came back on!

[hondatuner01]

Originally Posted by yankeechess

I had the same problem with Code 1457 EVAP Purge Solenoid on your charcoal canister has to be replaced! I bought a used canister complete with the EVAP solenoid valve from a 79,000 mile parts car and it did not work as my CE light came back on! I then bought a used complete EVAP charcoal canister with solenoid off of a parts car with only 10,000 miles (free of rust) on it and it has worked perfectly! I reset my codes and it has been off ever since! You can try to do what I did, but the easiest fix is to get a new EVAP Purge Solenoid! Installation is not difficult! You just got to get down and dirty under the car! The Charcoal canister is located to the rear of your gas tank! You can't miss it as it is a black plastic rectangular box. The purge solenoid is attached to it on the left (driver) side of the canister. Two screws hold it on. It has an electric plug and a small hose coming from it! Once you have installed it, reset your codes if you have an auto code scanner. If you don't, disconnect your battery cables for at least ten minutes and reconnect! Your CE should be off! If you solved the problem, your CE will stay off! If not, it will come back on within 3 days or around 300 miles! Here in NY State, before I got mine fixed, I needed an inspection, so I reset my codes the day prior to my inspection and had no problems getting passed! The following day after my inspection, my CE came back on!

excited much?

[Samuel]

Originally Posted by yankeechess

I had the same problem with Code 1457 EVAP Purge Solenoid on your charcoal canister has to be replaced! I bought a used canister complete with the EVAP solenoid valve from a 79,000 mile parts car and it did not work as my CE light came back on! I then bought a used complete EVAP charcoal canister with solenoid off of a parts car with only 10,000 miles (free of rust) on it and it has worked perfectly! I reset my codes and it has been off ever since! You can try to do what I did, but the easiest fix is to get a new EVAP Purge Solenoid! Installation is not difficult! You just got to get down and dirty under the car! The Charcoal canister is located to the rear of your gas tank! You can't miss it as it is a black plastic rectangular box. The purge solenoid is attached to it on the left (driver) side of the canister. Two screws hold it on. It has an electric plug and a small hose coming from it! Once you have installed it, reset your codes if you have an auto code scanner. If you don't, disconnect your battery cables for at least ten minutes and reconnect! Your CE should be off! If you solved the problem, your CE will stay off! If not, it will come back on within 3 days or around 300 miles! Here in NY State, before I got mine fixed, I needed an inspection, so I reset my codes the day prior to my inspection and had no problems getting passed! The following day after my inspection, my CE came back on!

Wow! You sure do know when to apply the proper punctuation! Haha! To the OP, good luck! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[2005greycivicex]

It's the purge valve on my 2005 civic. I eliminated the gas cap as a culprit with the vasaline on fill rim trick. It's about a 20 minute job if your resonably handy. Its never the charcoal canister on the 7th generation Hondas, thats just the stealer running the bill up on you. Should cost you $25-30 bucks. Hint, don't bother trying to remove those pesky clips on either side of the purge valve, just use a little coaxing pressure and they will slip off. The two screws are a little hidden so use a good screw driver so they don't slip off.One of those cheap china freight magnets on a spring helped me out to coax the screw out in this application.