broken parts and new turbo post 353 bomers build

[Maayhemm]

you know you can change just the lens in those helmets instead of buying a new one. and just a heads up i run a laser cutting stainless steel all day long, i can cut up to 3/4" thick so any special flanges would be no problem to make all i need is a dxf of the part or a detailed drawing so i canmake the dxf myself.

[Dezod]

Originally Posted by Maayhemm

you know you can change just the lens in those helmets instead of buying a new one. and just a heads up i run a laser cutting stainless steel all day long, i can cut up to 3/4" thick so any special flanges would be no problem to make all i need is a dxf of the part or a detailed drawing so i canmake the dxf myself.

If he doesn't have an auto darken, then he may want to buy a new lid. I have an auto darken with adjustable shade from 7-14. Love it. It's about 7 years old now.

[Greeenie]

3" off turbo, so long as someone else welds it!!! lmao, but seriously, what will u be happier with, what u want, or what u settled for

[Dezod]

I think the real dilemma lies in the fact that you want to use what you already purchased without spending tons or if necessary, much more of your hard earned $. So with that being said, make it work either way.

Even if you did have to come 2.5" off of the turbine and flare up to 3", it's not the end of the world by any means so long as the 2.5" isn't a severe cheated cut. It will still flow. Still make power and still rock your socks.

[pacotaco]

Originally Posted by Dezod

I think the real dilemma lies in the fact that you want to use what you already purchased without spending tons or if necessary, much more of your hard earned $. So with that being said, make it work either way.

Even if you did have to come 2.5" off of the turbine and flare up to 3", it's not the end of the world by any means so long as the 2.5" isn't a severe cheated cut. It will still flow. Still make power and still rock your socks.

you will make power till a little under 300 then you will taper off, after that you will see high egts and run into the probability of nuking your turbo and detonating the engine on a high boost tune. anything above 400hp needs 3in piping, or your robbing power gains significantly. the lower you can keep your egts the better the power gain, and the safer the tune can be.

id say get 3in in there any way possible and leave a 2.5in piece as a last resort, if anything get crazy and maybe bash in 3in pipe with a hammer where it will not fit.

[Dezod]

Originally Posted by pacotaco

you will make power till a little under 300 then you will taper off, after that you will see high egts and run into the probability of nuking your turbo and detonating the engine on a high boost tune. anything above 400hp needs 3in piping, or your robbing power gains significantly. the lower you can keep your egts the better the power gain, and the safer the tune can be.

id say get 3in in there any way possible and leave a 2.5in piece as a last resort, if anything get crazy and maybe bash in 3in pipe with a hammer where it will not fit.

I am not trying to sound condescending, but let me correct your post here. Being a tuner myself, you are pretty far off base. Let me elaborate briefly.

Exhaust restrictions are true, HOWEVER you will hit MANY other restrictions prior to the exhaust diameter one....Let's review the combustion process: suck, squeeze, bang and blow. Ok.

Next, during the blow what occurs? The cam moves, the valve opens, the burned exhaust gas enters to the turbo manifold, collects into the turbine housing, spins the turbine wheel which is connected by shaft to the compressor wheel, the exhaust gas exits the turbine and THEN hit the exhaust tubing.

So undoubtedly you will reach restriction in the cam, cylinder head, turbo manifold, turbine housing and turbine wheel PRIOR to exhaust diameter restrictions. I mean, don't get me wrong, a turbo won't like a restrictive 1.75" exhaust diameter...

Furthermore, smaller turbo turbine A/Rs require larger exhaust diameters to work more efficiently by the design of the wheel and it's fashion it moves air. Larger turbine A/Rs can move air more efficiently on smaller diameter exhausts due to the way it moves air.

EGTs are a function of the tune more than anything. It's a function of the air/fuel ratio selected and the amount of ignition timing ran. Keep in mind, too rich or too lean can have the same net high EGT result. Same goes for ignition timing. So it's best to know what end of the parabola you are in with the proper instrumentation.

Lastly, the complete picture of the build will need to be taken into account. It's not just one magical element that offers power to a setup above a magical HP number. It's the build as a whole and the components running in harmony together. It's every component that is doing a function in that combustion equation. Suck, squeeze, bang and blow. If it's used in that equation, it needs to be taken into account. Parts like turbo intakes, air filters, turbo charger specs, IC piping routing and diameter, intake manifold, cylinder head, spark plugs, cams, pistons, fuel, intercooler, turbo manifold, exhaust diameter, engine management etc all play a roll in the entire picture. Just saying.

[bomerman19]

Originally Posted by Maayhemm

you know you can change just the lens in those helmets instead of buying a new one. and just a heads up i run a laser cutting stainless steel all day long, i can cut up to 3/4" thick so any special flanges would be no problem to make all i need is a dxf of the part or a detailed drawing so i canmake the dxf myself.

It's not the lens I know you can grab those for like $5 its the whole auto darkening piece its pretty much dead I have had the helmet for like 5 years it has been through hell and back it had a know on the side for adjustable shades but that part never really worked at all. I have been looking at this one for a while I would have gotten it back when I did the RHD but I just could not afford it at the time. now I can and I really wanted something with millers X-mode I tried it out once and it was awesome.

for those that don't know x-mode flips the auto darkening on when it since the electromagnetic field so it does not need light to trigger it this is awesome if you have to weld behind something that is out of view of the sensors. or if you under the car welding you can have a shop light right next to you and it won't accidentally turn on the autodark from the light off the shop light. it will only trigger when it sense that electromagnetic field.

and of course I wanted something where the adjustable shades actually worked so I could adjust how light or dark it was.










This thing is so comfortable and so light it's crazy

by the way thanks adam

I think I am going to flange right off the 2.5 inch vband up to 3 inch with a transition and then run it down all in 3 inch to my exhaust looks like I have a lot of room to work with. just need time and I'll make it myself I am going to try and tig the whole thing

[bomerman19]

damm it I just flipped that image uhg!

[Dezod]

Hey Paul, how much was the lid? It looks nice. Mine back when was $250. It's an industrial one that has auto dark, grind, 7-14 shade and sensitivity settings. It's about 7 years old now.

[bomerman19]

$276 and it has weld mode which is 8-13 shade cut mode which is 5-8 shade grind mode which is shade 3 and x-mode which is 8-13 and sensitivity is 0-10 on all settings except grind mode plus 0-10 on delay controls. 4 sensors and magnetic sensor and the veiwing area is something huge like 9.25 sq in's and the thing only weighs 18 oz and comes with a three year warranty.

the thing is comfy I like it alot