DIY: Oil Catch Can Set up

POST ONLY QUESTIONS ABOUT THE SET UP! DO NOT POST USELESS COMMENTS LIKE THAT HOT! THEY WILL BE DELETED!

If i had a picture of a D17 Manifold i could show you were this needs to go. However i don't have a D17 any more so i cant take pics and show you.
closest have right now is: and i believe you would use B-24

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s5p01_e03.gif

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/5737/stp61699mediumtm7.jpg

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/1442/ebayqg5.jpg



On a k20 or k24 motor this is the section im dealing with:
https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/11.jpg

Tools:
Flat Head Screw Driver
http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/870104/2/istockphoto_870104_flat_head_screwdriver.jpg
Phillips head Screw Driver
http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/1712341/2/istockphoto_1712341_phillips_head_screw_driver.jpg
Drill
http://www.sz-wholesale.com/uploadFiles/Cordless%20Drill_266.jpg
Step Drill bit
http://www.tradetufftools.com/images/45-365.gif

Parts:
Oil Catch can: (I used EBAY)
http://www.turbophile.com/technical/diy_cc/3d_diagram.jpg
(NOTE this is what a real Catch can should look like!)

7ft of 3/8" Fuel hoes *What i used*
1 set of Universal Gladhand seals *bought at a truck stop*
https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/2.JPG?uniq=-u60x7v

4 Small hose clamps
Self tapping Metal screws


Pre-conditions:
I had removed my front bumper and radiator to do this DIY.

Step one:
Identify a good spot to locate your catch can to. *This location is on the passenger side of my car, under the headlight.*
https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/5.JPG

Step Two:
drill 2 holes big enough to install Glad hands into.(note the hole does not need to be as big as the glad hand just big enough to force it threw the holes)

https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/3.JPG

https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/4.JPG

Step Three:
Run your hoses to the catch can from the PVC Valve to catch can, and from the catch can back to the intake manifold:

https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/10.JPG
(Note this was a custom bent tube i made so i didn't have to run extra hoes to the Intake manifold. )

https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/9.JPG

https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/8.JPG

Step 4:
Tighten up all hose clams on the sections of hose that need to be tightened:
https://bearspace.baylor.edu/Glen_Newell/public/Catch%20Can/7.JPG


Step Five:
Put your car back together, and enjoy oil crap no going back into your intake!

Thanks for reading.
Glen

I like where you put it, gonna have to move mine down there. However, what about when you're under boost? Obviously the PCV will close so nothing will back up into the crankcase, but I think there is a better way to do this. Especially since with an SC you're constantly under boost, so that check valve on the PCV is going to be closed most of the time. You need a different vac source.

This has two vac sources. When you are under boost, the IM source pressurizes and closes the check valve, but you still pull vacuum from the exhaust to release the crankcase gases.

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/3059/catchcanrouting2hm8.jpg

Ive done a lot of research on my set up... spoke to a lot of people about it and every came to the same answer... where i have it is correct for a close loop system... this is if i ran an open loop your diagram would be close... see there are 2 ways of setting up a system.

the stock Honda pcv system has a few issues :

1. No vacuum at WOT which leads to excessive crankcase pressure which can lead to pumping losses. This in turn leads to poor ring seal.
2. At low/part throttle, you have a vacuum and this causes hot oil vapors to be recalculated back into the intake manifold... This leads to a loss of efficiency and a higher risk of detonation (combustion chambers don't like hot oil vapors).

So running a catch can keeps you from introducing oil vapors into the intake track (ever noticed how filthy the inside of your manifold is? that’s why.) It also prevents you from burning as much oil in high rpm situations (see reason #1). Also, If you are boosted, running a breather/catch can will allow for a few more Psi of boost (hot vapors increases chances of detonation).There are 2 kinds of systems that can be run:


1.) closed loop system...this is the system seen on the Blue RSX-S. with the PVC valve in its stock location. a line running from the PVC valve to the catch & a second line running from the catch to the IM.
http://img74.exs.cx/img74/272/completedinstall024mc.jpg
[

2.) open loop system..set up with a baffled (& larger) oil catch can with a PVC valve attached to the top of the catch w/a breather

http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/501/11214civic_pcv_system.PNG

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/MJ23FE/K-swapped%20Cars/10706042.jpg
NOTE: this picture is an incorrect set up, there should be a breather on the catch can itself.

Do you guys know if this setup is legal in California because I have heard that they fail emissions tests. Is this true because I would like to buy a Greddy catch tank?

i dont see how its ilegal? it just catches oil:dunno:

Do you guys know if this setup is legal in California because I have heard that they fail emissions tests. Is this true because I would like to buy a Greddy catch tank?

Everything is illegal in California that's why i moved out of that state! LOL... but as far as i know its not illegal there. If you want to find out, look up emissions codes in California and you can find your answer.. When i lived there i did everything i could to bend the rules as much as i could.

is this diagram the same for a turbo application on a d17

im running a boosted set up and dont have an intake pipe where to u run the hose 2???

i have a greedy catch can and it doesnt have a breather on it.

you can just put a breather on the spot thats supposed to go to the intake.